2 15 10 CVB Destination Dubuque HandoutDestination:
With its family -friendly attractions and events, Dubuque's renovated riverfront is a playground for tourists and residents alike.
By Karla Nagy, associate editor
you say you're looking for a great place to get away?
How about a city with historic architecture, a thriving arts
culture, vibrant music scene and quaint downtown, along with a
beautiful riverfront, surrounded by limestone bluffs and natural
landscapes? Did we mention world-class museums, four-star
hotels, first-rate gaming, great food and wonderful family attrac-
tions? Oh, and its residents are friendly folk, with fierce civic
pride
Sounds good, you say? Great! Start packing.
But you needn't book a flight. This is a description of
Dubuque, Iowa. Yes, Dubuque — reachable by car in just a few
hours from most points in the tri-state region.
Port of Dubuque
Established in 1788 on the banks of the Mississippi River by
French-Canadian lead miners, Dubuque became a bustling river
port in the 19th century, and grew into a key manufacturing area
in the 20th century. In the 1980s, the loss of many of its industrial
employers left the once -grand waterfront deserted, most of its
factories and warehouses abandoned.
Now, the "Mighty Miss" is once again a defining feature of
the city, thanks to America's River Project. This $400 million
riverfront renovation, supported and financed through a unique
collaboration of public and private entities, has transformed
Dubuque into a tourist destination. Its focal point is the Port of
Dubuque, centrally located to restaurants, shops and hotels.
"The Port of Dubuque is absolutely amazing," says Keith
Rahe, director of the Dubuque Convention & Visitors Bureau.
"The project took a dilapidated, old waterfront district, and cre-
ated a fantastic destination. There are so many things to do there
— the museum, the river rides, the casinos, the brewery, the arbo-
retum and botanic gardens. And the excitement has sprinkled
over to downtown and our historic Main Street."
First to be completed in the enormous undertaking was the
Grand Harbor Resort & Waterpark, opened in 2002. Overlooking
the river, it has 193 rooms with 31
suites, meeting facilities, a restau-
rant and 25,000 -square -foot indoor
waterpark.
In 2003 came the Grand River
Center, a 114,000 -square -foot con-
vention and event venue. Its dis-
tinctive River Room, with all -glass
walls, juts out over the banks of
the Mississippi River in a sweep-
ing vista.
The half -mile long Mississippi
Riverwalk also opened in 2003.
Keith Rahe
124 Northwest Quarterly
Spring 2010
A gigantic catfish enthralls two young girls at Dubuque's
National Mississippi River Museum & Aquarium.
Following the riverbank from Ice Harbor to the Alliant Energy
Amphitheater, it passes by the 5,000 -square -foot River's Edge
Plaza, a public pavilion where excursion boats dock.
The crown jewel of America's River Project, the National
Mississippi River Museum & Aquarium, opened for business in
June 2003. Just four years later, it received its one millionth visi-
tor. In 2009, it was named Iowa's No. 1 attraction, by the Iowa
Department of Tourism and the Travel Federation of Iowa.
Just across the street, the $82 million Diamond Jo Casino
reopened in a brand new building in 2008. One of its most
popular features is a 30 -lane bowling alley. A bit upstream, on
Champlain Schmitt Island, the Mystique (formerly Dubuque
Greyhound Park & Casino) has had two expansion and renova-
tion projects since 2005, totaling nearly $45 million.
"We get the word out there, to let people know what's here,"
says Rahe. "With all of these changes, we've become a tourist
draw, not just for gambling, but for family events."
The Little Museum That Could - And Did
The National Mississippi River Museum & Aquarium began as
a small museum run by the Dubuque County Historical Society.
From these humble beginnings has sprung a five -acre complex,
growing not just in size, but also in scope and influence.
It is accredited by the American Association of Museums,
a distinction held by only 9 percent of American museums. It is
one of just 150 affiliates of the Smithsonian Institution.
And, it's just a great place to visit.
"Of our 250,000 annual visitors, 47 percent stay more than
three hours," says Jerry Enzler, executive director. "And 11 per-
cent stay five to six hours." Little wonder.
Sturgeon, gigantic catfish, long -nosed gar, an enormous
The limestone outcroppings of Dubuque's Eagle Point Park offer a breath-
taking view of the Mississippi River and historic Lock & Dam #11.
snapping turtle, and even an alligator occupy six huge aquariums
in the William Woodward Educational Center. Ducks, frogs,
turtles and other creatures reside in other open habitat exhibits.
In the Carver Wet Lab, visitors learn about other freshwater
inhabitants like mussels, crawfish and snails in a touch tank.
Interactive exhibits allow visitors to pilot a barge in simula-
tion down the Mississippi, and learn about the lives of American
Indians, pioneers and fur trappers. They can tour the dredge boat
William M. Black, a national landmark docked in the harbor, to
learn some riverboat history.
The National Rivers Hall of Fame honors those who have
contributed to the importance of America's rivers: writers, art-
ists, explorers, inventors and pioneers. Three theaters offer films
about riverboat history, including interactive features.
The Phase II expansion of the Mississippi River Museum
will open in June in a second building, located on the other end
of the parking lot, donated by Diamond Jo Casino after the con-
struction of its new complex.
"The exhibits here go beyond
the Mississippi River," says Enzler.
"`Riverways' covers the history of
rivers in the nation. `Rivers to the
Sea' shows how areas along the
coast are impacted by rivers, and
'Our Blue Planet' features a Gulf
of Mexico tank."
In 2011, Phase III will create
an outdoor habitat between the
buildings, with native plants and
trees and a stream. "We use geo-
thermal energy, and we'll use the
Jerry Enzler
Northwest Quarterly Spring 2010 125
Renovated by the city in 2003, the 112 -year-old Star Brewery is home to
the family-owned Stone Cliff Winery and the upscale Star Restaurant.
warm water discharged to create a living stream that visitors can
follow," Enzler explains.
Enzler is especially proud of the museum's role in spurring
Dubuque's riverfront renaissance. "Usually, the museum is the
beneficiary of a riverfront redevelopment," he explains. "In this
case, it was a major impetus. The museum was the first piece.
And after the initial grant, our people went out to raise the other
$188 million we needed for the project. And they succeeded. The
city and the chamber were important partners."
Enzler basically is the National Mississippi River Museum
& Aquarium. He's been there for 33 years, serving as funding
director before becoming executive director. Much of his service
was volunteer. "I was the museum's first full-time employee,"
says Enzler. "Many communities have turned their backs on their
waterfronts. They've become neglected, even dangerous areas."
Not Dubuque.
While the museum's national recognition is greatly appreci-
ated, the main goal was to benefit Dubuque. "Tourism is nice,
but we set out to build something that would enhance the qual-
ity of life for the residents," says Enzler. "Its success is much
greater than the infrastructure. It's given Dubuque citizens a
can -do attitude, and helped the community to grow, in pride and
accomplishment."
Festivals & Fun
Dubuque's riverfront has even more to offer. "We have a thriv-
ing festival community during the summer months," says Rahe.
One of the most popular is the America's River Festival,
which began in 2004 and attracts upwards of 20,000 visitors.
It includes performers like Randy Travis and Lady Antebellum
— and a Dock Dogs competition, all centered around the
Hotel Julien Dubuque's ornate lobby and grand staircase offer a
glimpse into the city's past.
Mississippi River. This year, it will be held from June 11-13.
In August, Taste of Dubuque attracts more than 10,000
each year. This year, in October, Port of Dubuque will host the
Dock Dogs National Championship.
The arts culture is present along the riverfront also.
Dubuquefest, put on each year during the second weekend in
May by the Dubuque County Arts Council, is a celebration of
fine arts, with live music, arts and artisan crafts on display and
for sale.
"A new event this summer is 'Art Market,'" Rahe adds.
"Every Saturday, from July 17 through Sept. 11, artists will set
up booths and sell their original art along the Riverwalk. On
four of those Saturdays, they'll feature live music and food."
Of course, the river itself provides endless opportunities,
from riverboat rides, water skiing, kayaking and fishing in
summer, to ice fishing, ice and snow sculpting and ice harvest
demonstrations in winter.
"People used to say there's nothing to do in Dubuque,"
says Mayor Roy Buol. "Now, it's
a vibrant hub of activity. I love
attending the arts events and fes-
tivals."
Beyond the Mighty
Miss
The amenities of its riverfront are
just part of Dubuque's allure. As
the state's oldest established settle-
ment, the city has a strong appre-
ciation of history. "Dubuque is one
of those communities where you
Northwest Quarterly
Roy Buol
Spring 2010 127
Loras College, a private Catholic liberal arts institution and Iowa's oldest
college, is located (fittingly) in Dubuque, its oldest city.
can get a great sense of the past," says Buol. "But it's a very
progressive city."
By city ordinance, Dubuque established an archeology
district and five historical preservation districts. As of January
2010, 68 of its buildings and sites are listed on the National
Register of Historic Places, and many more are pending.
The America's River Project spurred other refurbishments
in Dubuque. The Dubuque Star Brewery was built on the banks
of the Mississippi in 1898, and operated continuously (except
during Prohibition) until 1999, producing up to 500,000 barrels
a year at its height. The city obtained the property in 2002 and
renovated the building, even preserving much of the old brew-
ing equipment, which is now on display, along with an array of
historic beer bottles and cans.
Today, family -run Stone Cliff Winery occupies the main
floor, and Star Restaurant & Ultra Lounge operates upstairs.
The facility offers rooms for private events, an outdoor patio
overlooking the river and docks for guests who prefer to arrive
by boat.
On Main Street, Hotel Julien,
the city's oldest hotel, recently
completed a $32 million renova-
tion. Guests get a sense of the
hotel's rich history in the beauti-
ful lobby with its grand staircase,
yet can enjoy the onsite spa, the
full-service Caroline's Restaurant
and a riverfront terrace, along with
richly -appointed rooms and suites.
Abraham Lincoln, Al Capone and
Sylvester Stallone are among those
Mike Van Milligan
Blackjack is just one of the challenging games visitors can enjoy at
Mystique, the casino and greyhound track on Dubuque's Champlain
Schmitt Island.
on the Hotel Julien's "who slept here" list.
Another historic Main Street building that was given new
life is the Five Flags Center, named for the number of national
flags that have flown over Dubuque since its founding. A the-
ater in the late 1800s and early 1900s, it underwent a couple of
reincarnations as a movie house, before neglect caused it to be
scheduled for demolition.
Renovated and reopened in 1976, today it is home to the
Dubuque Symphony Orchestra, a community theater troupe and
the Dubuque Thunderbirds hockey team. "It's one of the gems
of downtown, one that almost fell to the wrecking ball," says
Buol. "But one individual was committed to saving that histori-
cal landmark, and he rallied other concerned citizens who saved
it. There's a lot of that kind of cooperation going on in our town."
In the Historic Millwork District Project, one million square
feet of warehouses are being restored in a $100 million undertak-
ing. "Private developers have committed $90 million, to create
space for 750 loft apartments and retail and commercial space,"
says Mike Van Milligan, Dubuque's city manager. "The city's
commitment of just under $10 million involves upgrading and
replacing utilities, building and repaving streets and providing
parking for more than 500 vehicles."
By giving new life to important historic structures that sym-
bolize the city's past, the renovation will preserve city history.
By creating living spaces within walking distance of jobs, goods
and services, it furthers Dubuque's sustainability initiative.
"We've estimated 13,000 daily vehicle trips per day will be
saved," says Van Milligan. "Plus, it's embodied energy. We're
recycling and leveraging existing infrastructures, rather than
using new materials and adding to landfills."
128 Northwest Quarterly Spring 2010
One of the most popular features of Diamond Jo Casino's new $82 million
complex is Cherry Lanes, its 30 -lane bowling alley.
Partnering for Growth
Dubuque's accomplishments, made over the past 25 years, are
especially impressive, given the city's dire straits in 1984, when
its unemployment rate was 23 percent, the highest in the country.
"The only way to go was up," says Buol, a Dubuque native.
"People decided they needed to work together, form partner-
ships. And people really stepped up."
The office of the Dubuque Greater Development Corp.
(GDEC) was established in 1984, to serve as touch point for
these collaborators.
"At the time, two businesses [John Deere Dubuque Works
and Dubuque Packing Co.] employed 25 percent of the area's
workforce," says Rick Dickinson, executive director/COO of
Greater Dubuque Development. In the mid -'80s, the packing
company closed, and John Deere had a massive layoff, followed
by a prolonged UAW strike; the impact on the region's economy
was devastating.
Many compare today's economic climate to that 1980s
recession. But in 2010, Dubuque is weathering the current fiscal
crisis in a much better fashion, because of its more diversified
employer base. "Dubuque County has 3 percent of Iowa's total
population, but it's responsible for 9 percent of job growth in the
state over the past decade," Dickinson points out.
While attracting new businesses is important, GDEC's
main focus is on business retention and expansion, according
to Dickinson. "We" he says. "We sit down, face-to-face with
200 CEOs each year. We ask each of them the same questions,
enter the data into a synchrosystem and use it to track trends.
We identify what we refer to as SWOT — strengths, weaknesses,
opportunities and threats, and we respond accordingly."
The strategy is working. According to Van Milligan, the lat-
est CEO survey indicated that 43 percent will be adding employ-
ees in 2010. MedLine medical supply, which started in Dubuque
The 52 -acre Dubuque Arboretum & Botanical Garden is the only one
in the United States that's staffed entirely by volunteers — 375 total.
with just 20 employees in 2000, now has a staff of close to 300,
and last year cut the ribbon on a new office complex.
"It all happens because of planning, partnership and peo-
ple," says Van Milligan.
A key factor for a healthy city is workforce development,
which starts with education. "We've ranked seventh in the nation
for public schools," says Dickinson. "Our proximity to institu-
tions of higher education is key. With so many four-year and
community colleges in the area, we create our own seed corn."
Dubuque scored a major coup by being chosen as the site
for IBM's new technological delivery services center, beating
out Boston, North Carolina's Research Park Triangle and Silicon
Valley, among others. IBM has renovated the upper floors of the
81 -year-old Roshek Building, in the heart of downtown. The
center will bring 1,300 new jobs and, with the influx of traffic
downtown, more growth.
"Our office is all about people," Dickinson says. "We con-
nect the dots — which are people. And we can do that, because
we have such a crystal clear picture of our product. Dubuque has
become a hub. We went from no
interstate connections to having
four that intersect here. Our river -
front renovation started in 2000,
and we now have the seventh -
best aquarium in the country. Five
years ago, Main Street was empty.
Most amazing to me is the fact that
all of these improvements have
gone on at the same time.
"All of it's been done with
a focus on quality -of -life for our
residents," Dickinson adds, "and
they recognize that." 1
Rick Dickinson
Northwest Quarterly ' Spring 2010 131