Phase 5 Historical and Architectural Survery of the Fenelon PLace, N Main, & Broadway Neighborhoods
Phase V
Dubuque Historical and Architectural Survey of
the Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway
Neighborhoods
James E. Jacobsen
History Pays!
June 30, 2005
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
~:'!ro',.t:.~'~t1.~'7 .
Cover Photo Credits:
Upper photo: Madison and North Main, viewed northeast from West 17th, c.1915 (Center For Dubuque
History, Loras College).
Lower photo: Fenelon Place and West 3rd Street, 1974 (Telegraph-Herald Staff Photo, November 27,
1974)
This survey project was funded by means of a State of Iowa Certified Local Governments grant with
matched funding being provided by the City of Dubuque.
Federal Funding and Non-Discriminatory Notification:
The activity that is the subject of the this survey project has been financed in part with Federal funds
from the National Park Service, U.S. Department of Interior. However, the contents and opinions do
not necessarily reflect the view or policies of the Department of the Interior, nor does the mention of
trade names or commercial products constitute endorsement or recommendation by the Department of
the Interior."
This program receives Federal financial assistance for identification and protection of historic
properties. Under Title VI of the Civil Rights Act of 1964, Section 504 of the rehabilitation Act of
1973, and the Age Discrimination Act of 1975, as amended, the U. S. Department of the Interior
prohibits discrimination on the basis of race, color, national origin, disability or age in its federally
assisted programs. If you believe you have been discriminated against in any program, activity, or
facility as described above or if you desire further information, please write to:
Office of Equal Opportunity
National Park Service
1849 C Street, N.W.
Washington, D.C. 20204
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Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Table of Contents:
Introduction: .............................................................................................................................. .. . . ... .. .. .. .. 3
Part I: Fenelon Place Neighborhood Historical Survey Report .............................................. 4
Part II: North Main Or Madison Park Neighborhood Historic Survey Report ................. 51
Part III: Broadway Neighborhood Historic Survey Report: ................................................... 75
Proj ect Methodo logy: ....................................................................................................................... 98
Bib I i 0 graph y: .............................................................................................................................. . . . . .. 1 00
2
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Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Introduction:
.,~~,;
This architectural and historical survey is the fifth in a series of Dubuque historical studies.
Phase I documented the lower Couler Valley. Phase II did the same for the Eagle Point neighborhood.
Phase III focused on the downtown proper and nearby residential areas. Phase IV re-surveyed the
Jackson Park and Cathedral National Register districts and documented and listed the West 11 th Street
and Langworthy residential districts to the National Register. This phase focused on three other bluff-
front residential areas, two of which were thought to contain potential historic districts.
The three successive survey areas are treated in this report. A methodology section describes
how the survey was conducted. Each individual property within the three survey areas was
documented and photographed and an Iowa Site Inventory form was completed. Three separate
appendices to this report contain the same information that is individually presented for each property.
This data is summarized in a spreadsheet fashion and offers a single-point resource for each survey
area.
Project intern Linda A. Mathewson assisted the consultant, James Jacobsen, in completing this
project. Assistant Planner Wally Wernimont served as project manager.
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Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Overview:
Part I: Fenelon Place Neighborhood Historical Survey Report
Fenelon Place is the southernmost of Dubuque's distinctive bluff-front neighborhoods.
Fenelon Hill or even Fenelon Place was commonly broadly used to refer to the larger neighborhood
beginning in the pre-Civil War years. The term Prospect Hill was used in the plats to denote the hill
that dominates the area to the north.
The survey area in this study was bordered by Hill Street (east side only) between West 3rd and
West 5th, West 5th (south side only) between Hill and the bluff front, the bluff front on the east (or
Raymond Place), and West 3rd, between the bluff front and Hill on the south (also included were a
number of south side properties along West 3rd between Burch and the west side of James streets, and
properties on Cardiff Street).
Figure 1: Survey Area (Map prepared by the City of Dubuque, 2004)
(contours mark two feet elevation changes)
The survey area (Figure 1) is necessarily fully developed as a residential neighborhood. Just
two commercial properties are located at Hill and West 5th and reflect the mixed use of Hill Street.
There are no historic institutional or religious buildings to be found. With one great exception, the Tri-
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Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
State Convalescent Center at 901 West 3fd, there have been no institutional intrusions into the
neighborhood. It is curious that m:uor commercial and institutional land uses border the survey area
along its southern edge.
Given its bluff top location it is no surprise that the actual distribution of housing within the
survey area assumes no dominant pattern. Three streets run the full east/west length of the survey area
(West 3fd, Fenelon and West 5th). Just two cross streets, Burch and Summit, connect the perimeter
streets, West 5th and West 3fd Consequently the vast m:uority of homes front north or south onto the
east/west streets. East and west fronting houses are found on both sides of Burch and Summit, the
west side of Gilmore, and both sides of Cardiff, which projects southward below West 3fd Street.
Houses which front onto West 3fd and West 5th, to the east of Summit Street, are set atop increasingly
higher terraces as one proceeds eastward.
The survey area topography consists of two prominent ridgelines that orient roughly east and
west. One runs south of West 3fd Street, while the other runs between that street (on the south) and
West 5th to the north. HilI Street runs through a broad drainage that orients to the northeast and both
West 5th and West 3fd streets follow steeply pitched drainage basins. Despite the topography, streets
assume a traditional grid pattern, with north/south streets being aligned with the bluff front in a
northwest/ southeast orientation. The plats and sub-plats produced lots of varied dimensions.
AIIeyways Occur only along HiII and the several east/west streets.
Figure 2: City of Dubuque Plat, 1852, Joseph C. Jennings, City Engineer
(St. Louis: Jul Hutawa Litho.)
The 1852 Dubuque City Plat (Figure 2) depicts the large rectangular city lots that were laid out
regardless of topography. From left to right, West 3fd, West 5th (with its angled approach west from
West 4 t\ and West 8th Street ascend west from Bluff Street. HilI Street branches off southwest from
the latter street. Clearly marked is the Catholic Cemetery, located on the bluff front west of and above
St. Raphael's Cathedral, to the south of West 3rd Street. The bluff lines are generally accurately
depicted.
Findings:
As is the case with all early Dubuque residential neighborhoods, the surviving houses represent
a mix of older and later-date replacement or late infill housing. The m:uority of early frame residences
and many brick homes, do not survive. This is particularly true of Fenelon Place, West 3fd and West
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Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
5th streets, which were almost completely redeveloped beginning in the 1890s. Summit was the first
cross street and it developed along its west side and the north part of its east side prior to the Civil War.
Burch Street developed south to north beginning in the middle 1880s. Cardiff Street similarly was
built up during the I 880s, but from north to south. Hill Street developed in two phases, during the late
1880s-1896 on its north half, and between 1893 and 1901 on its south half. Fenelon Place was as
noted re-built on the south side of its east end beginning in the late 1890s. Houses on the north side of
that street dated 1898-1911. These house designs were executed in the Classical Revival style, as were
those along Burch Street (west side, north half of the street) and Hill Street.
HOUSES BUILT, 1850-1899
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15
10
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111 HOUSES BUILT,
1850-1899
Figure 3:
Figure 3 shows the chronological distribution of 63 surviving pre-1900 houses. The pattern
depicts a good number of early surviving houses but it also shows the onset of a re-building phase that
started during the second half of the 1880s. The surviving pre-1870 houses, 17 in number, are
clustered along the south side of Fenelon, on Summit, and on the north side of West 3fd Street, west of
Summit. Scattered survivors are to be found on Burch, and West 5th streets. Houses dating to the
1870s follow the same pattern.
Stylistically, there are six Federal examples, 20 Italianate examples, six Queen Anne designs,
and 24 Classical/Colonial Revival designs. There are just four examples of the Second Empire style,
all of which are on the Fenelon or West 3fd streets. There is one Gothic Revival example (243
Cardiff). Thirty-eight examples are best described as vernacular, but the range is broad. A few
cottages are included but the majority of examples are gable front ones.
The concluding years of the rebuilding of the area are reflected in Figure 4 (page 7). The First
World War brought a halt to the construction, with just two new houses dating to 1915-19. House
building resumed post-war with 11 new homes being built between 1920 and 1929. The northeast
quadrant of the survey area was re-platted in 1950 and virtually all ofthe 16 minimal traditional
designs were built on Copper Place, Raymond Place, or Gihnore Street, beginning in the early 1950s.
The west end of Cooper Place began its initial development in 1940-41 when two cottages were built
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Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
opposite the Claridge Apartments. Other infill forms.incJl!ded bungalows (five), four squares (five),
revival style cottages (three), Craftsman style (one), and two split-foyer examples.
HOUSES BUILT 1999-64
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1999-64
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Figure 4:
Figure 5: Proposed Fenelon Place Historic District (black boundary lines)
The proposed historic district (Figure 5) encompasses the majority of the survey area,
excluding only the lower reaches of West 3rd, West 5th and Hill streets. The latter is excluded because
it fronts away from the survey area, is located within the Hill Street drainage, and lacks the necessary
integrity to warrant inclusion. The other exclusions have terrace-top houses which cannot be seen, and
have intrusive infill and a lack of integrity. Five included properties will be 50 years of age and
contributing by 2007. The district combines two architectural themes. The dominant theme is pre-
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Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
World War I residential architecture. The second is thato,,~st-World War II contemporary
architecture. The strongest portions of the district are located within the southwest quadrant of the
survey area (the west end of Fenelon, Summit Street, and West 3rd between Hill and Summit.
The Fenelon Mystique:
The two points where elevated railroads developed in Dubuque marked the most prestigious
bluff-front residential neighborhoods. Grove Terrace or West 11 th Street (National Register of Historic
Places, 2004) and Fenelon Place shared physical prominence and a splendid isolation that was bourne
of their elevated locations. The origin of the name Fenelon is unexplained. There was an Irish family
of miners by that n3.!lle, that resided in the Cardiff Street area just after the Civil War. But Fenelon
pre-dates the war.
Julius Graves made Fenelon what it was. His stately Fenelon Place mansion, located on four
acres ofland, was termed the "Executive Mansion" in mid-1867 when Graves was elected mayor of
Dubuque. The Herald reported:
Yesterday we took a stroll on Third street bluff. By the way why do not the residents
on Fenelon extend the classical nomenclature of their locality and give us something
better than Third Street BluftT?] It is out of place and grates on the ear. "Third street
slough" will do-that is beyond redemption as an attractive place. But the bluff, one of
the most beautiful in the city, or along the entire river, from its beauty deserves a
suggestive name. What it shall be we leave to those immediately interested. We urge,
however, that a change be made (Herald, June 19, 1867).
A 1957 retrospective treatment of the neighborhood also linked the Graves presence with the
identify of the area:
The J. H. Graves home was a mecca of social life. The Graves were related by
marriage to Dubuque's famed Langworthys. When the latter came home from New
York for a summer visit, the street buzzed with excitement. People saw and were seen.
Parties were lavish, conversation eager. It was a time to be happy and young and
excited.
Other landed gentry on this personality street knew the format of aristocratic living.
But the Graves were the titlists, their old neighbors agree. Mrs. Graves was said to have
dressed like an empress.
A street that halts on a bluff overlooking a panorama of the Mississippi Valley,
Fenelon Place did not depend on social power for its fascination.
Take the touchy subject of gossip. Fenelon Place thrived on it. But even that was
done differently. It was not malicious. It was clever. If somebody got in some mixup,
it spread up and down the street quickly and the people smiled knowingly. But no
malicious jibes or snubs. The people were just too light-hearted and gay and full of fun.
"Fun, with money to help it along.. .that was Fenelon Place," one old resident
remembers. They weren't busy trying to impress each other. It was taken for granted
everyone was "somebody." So they could devote themselves to intimate conversation,
secret dreams of the future, good games and a daily look at the breath-taking river
valley beneath them.
Here Dubuque author Bissell, now being compared to Mark Twain, was born. There's
no mistake about the imprint Fenelon Place stamped on the boy who has become a
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Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
famous writer. His son, Thomas, edits a weekly 11_",i,1l the author's Connecticut home
nostalgically called the "Fenelon Place Journal."
Here was the ideal spot to watch a horrible, but fascinating fire. In the 1890s several
Dubuque business landmarks were leveled in deadly fires. Some were connected with
well heeled Fenelon residents. But the sheer magic of a large fire populated the bluff as
young and old watched in silent fascination from the perfect vantage point.
And here of course is the celebrated, ever-efficient Fenelon Place elevator, still five
cents a ride after 74 years. · ·
The Graves house is the only one to exit from the scene although others have been
streamlined somewhat. It was three stories like several other Fenelon houses...
When Graves' Commercial State Bank went down in a fire in 1888, amid some hint of
a bank shortage, things were not quite the same on Fenelon. Graves' position as a rich
man crumbled. But there were other rich people, the Tredways, the W. G. Foxes, the
Peter Seipples, the Charles Merkle's, the Bissells.
Several residents recall attending kindergarten under Miss Mary Hooper, first
kindergarten teacher in Dubuque, who put the kids through their paces in the Hooper
House.
Everyone recalled Mrs. Hattie Scott, and the Smock family, and don't forget the
George Raymonds. The Fenelonites were friendly and close and want to be
remembered that way.
In fact Miss Adele Wullweber says that although the street had its wealth, it was
predominantly middle class. At any rate the neighbors cut out the social barriers.
By 1920 all the houses were built, the street was paved and sidewalks were in.
New families came along such as the John Cunninghams, and the George Bogues. But
older residents like Theodore Ris stayed on.
Some houses began to take in roomers, one converted into an apartment, younger
people moved away. Yet some of the original flavor remained (Clark Kalvelage,
"Fabulous Fenelon: The Best View in Town.. .Beautiful Old Homes Mark Stately
Street," Telegraph-Herald, December 15, 1957).
At least two houses were demolished more recently. 629 Fenelon Place was demolished in December
1988. 645 Fenelon Place was taken down in August 1886. Both lots remain vacant. No date has been
found for the demolition of the Grave's house and its site is occupied by 515, 529, and 541 Fenelon
Place.
Relationship to Nearbv Areas and Associated Landmarks:
A closely related neighborhood is the Fifth Street Hill or Prospect Hill area, located to the north
and northeast. Prospect Street runs north/south and Raymond Place, a later-date Fenelon Place street,
was early on a southward extension of Prospect Street. Prospect Hill might be considered a part of the
broader Fenelon neighborhood given its physical proximity, its direct linkage via West 5th Street, and
its historical association. John Gantenbein built a three-story brick mansion (Figures 6-7) on a seven-
acre tract on the bluff front to the west of Bluff, north of West 5th Street. Described as a "mansion in
the skies" it was purchased by J. A. Rhomberg in 1867 and he substantially rebuilt the house that year,
changing virtually everything but its exterior walls. A large addition and observatory were added, the
latter offered a three-mile view. Rhomberg expended 30,000 perch of stone in retaining walls, all of
the work, by contractor Robert Armstrong, costing an estimated $50-200,000. "Immense
improvements" followed in 1868 as Rhomberg acquired what was termed the Boston Mining
Company property, that comprised 60 lots, a dozen houses, three stores and the Jesse Farley vineyards.
He widened West 5th Street to 64 feet, macadamized, guttered and sewered it, and added sidewalks on
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Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
that street for half a mile to the west of Locust Street. He similarly improved Prospect Street which led
off of West 5th to his residence. Rhomberg terraced adjacent Prospect Hill, planting 1,000 trees and
2,000 grape vines. Finally he rebuilt a house on West 5th that was associated with the vineyard and
was north of George Young's house, adding a second story at a cost of $4,000. His total 1868
expenditures were $15-25,000. His terraces featured heavy stone walls. There was a Rhomberg Street
near Rhomberg's residence long before there was a Rhomberg Street running out to Eagle Point.
Rhomberg's mansion was placed on the comer of Prospect and Rhomberg as of 1873. Rhomberg
made $3,000 in improvements on his residence that year (Herald, September 5,1867; December 13,
16,1868; November 9,1873; Times, January 1,1869).
C. Collins at the same time built a two-story frame house (Figure 6) with basement (32xI6)
with a rear kitchen wing (34x 10) on the bluff at the head of West 6th Street. The house site was first
blasted to create a level building site. The $3,000 house was apparently to the east of Rhomberg's
house. A third key residence, that of J. P. Farley, was on the Bluff at the head of West 6th Street.
Farley beautified his residence in 1870 with the expenditure of $1 ,500 (Herald, September 5, 1867;
December 18, 1870).
Fi~ure 6: View north along Lovers' Lane, J. Rhomberg House
and barn on 5t Street Hill, c.mid-1880s, West 5th Street crosses at the base of the lane
(Center For Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo Collection, #4641)
Figure 6A: Contemporary view from same point as Figure 6
(Photo by J. Jacobsen, April 2005)
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Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
The 5th Street Hill barely escaped obliteration in 1919 when the school board determined to
locate the new high school there and began condemnation proceedings against the opposing residents.
That case went to district court and eventually the school was relocated to its present site (Herald,
September 29, 1919).
Figure 7: J. Rhomberg House (c.mid-1880s), view northeast from West 5th Street
(Center For Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo Collection, #7109)
Figure 8: View north across 5t Street, c.1870
(Center for Dubuque History, Loras College)
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Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 9: View to the southwest from the Rhomberg House, c.mid-1880s, West 5th Street ascends in
the foreground. House of Platt Smith (non-extant) visible to right of center. Visible at the far left of
center is R. S. West's Italianate brick house that stood on West's Bluff or West Point
(Center For Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo Collection, #RM 1105)
Lovers' Lane:
Lovers' Lane, a steeply pitched ascent with wood sidewalk and high wood side walls, ascended
south from West 5th Street. The lane is visible on the two preceding photographs. There was also what
was termed "Rhomberg's Park" on the 5th Street hill, which closed in 1895, and the Fourth Street
Elevator Company acted at the same time to put in place "hog-tight" fences at either end of the lane
(Herald, September 10, 1895).
J ames Hughes' Shot Tower:
This shot tower complex was established in 1862-63 along the west side of Hill Street, below
JulianlUniversity. It suffered at least two catastrophic fires but continued in operation into the 1880s.
It combined a tower and mining shaft to obtain sufficient drop to produce the spherical lead shot.
Knapp Brickvard. Head of Julien Avenue:
This new yard, located near the Shot Tower, was turning out 8,000 brick daily as of late April
1867. The close proximity and bluff top location ofa source of brick to the Fenelon area would have
made brick more readily available to builders (Herald, April 25, 1867).
The Third Street Catholic Cemetery and St. Dominic's Villa:
This very large cemetery was prominently located on a broad flat terrace atop the bluff that
stood to the west of the Cathedral. The cemetery appears on the 1836 map of the city and indeed was
of such an early starting date that the formality of actual ownership was overlooked. Bishop Loras
consecrated the burial ground in 1839. Bishop Hennessey acted in 1867 to stop the sale of burial plots
and the issue of ownership came to the fore when the Bishop disclaimed any obligation to pay his large
assessment that resulted from the improvement of West 3rd Street. The City sued the Bishop but lost
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Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
its claim because the Bishop was right. He didn't own it..,Jt...wasn't until c.1906-08 that the ground
was finally transferred to the Diocese by the federal government. Burials continued in owned family
plats at least through 1896. The Dominican Sisters bought the cemetery and additional ground to the
east of Mercy Hospital in 1945. They built 8t. Dominic's Villa as a Novitiate for their Provence. One
hundred novitiates arrived at the complex each fall to undergo preliminary training for their new order.
The center also cared for retired members and took advantage of the proximity of the hospital for
medical care. The villa closed in 1964 when a new convent was completed at Sinsinawa. The massive
complex was demolished in 2005. In 1965 a local developer purchased the cemetery site and erected a
modem Tudor style residence. While the graves were, in theory removed, graves continue to be
struck. The site was largely supposedly completely graded off to bedrock and as a result there are two
distinct plateaus which step down to the east. The tragedy is that no burial records survive from this
cemetery and indeed, Dubuque is somewhat unique inasmuch as neither of her pioneer-era cemeteries
survive (Herald, February 27,1867; April 24, 1870; interview with Biays Bowerman, December 13,
2004).
Figure 10: 8t. Dominic's Villa
(Center For Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo Collection, #RM 4515)
Mercy Hospital Complex:
This sprawling Catholic medical complex borders the southern edge of the survey area and was
associated with St. Dominic's Villa, located directly to the east. Expansion of the parking areas and
the complex in general caused the removal of houses located along Langworthy and James, to the
south of West 3rd Street.
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Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 11: Aerial view of Mercy Hospital complex, looking northwest, c.1975
(Center For Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo Collection, #426)
Harkett's Nursery:
Figure 12: W. A. Harkett's Floral Nursery, greenhouses and storefront
opposite Hill and West Fifth streets, 1911
(Greater Dubuque, Dubuque: Times-J oumal, 1911)
This long-surviving nursery was established in 1872. The greenhouses on Hill were built in
mid-1877. There was a second storefront at 9th & Main at that time. Dubuque of Today (post-1902)
states that Harkett came to the city and established his nursery "that is now one of the flower
emporiums of the West." Twenty-three greenhouses totaled 42,000 square feet of glass (Herald, July
11, 1877; Dubuque of Today, p. 8).
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Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 13: Harkett's Nursery, viewed from 5t and Hill, northwest
(Center for Dubuque History, Loras College)
General Historical Development:
The survey area was populated with a number of early frame houses and cottages at this time.
It is probable that those who lived there were associated with mining efforts to the west of the city.
The Republican reported, in late 1856:
The appearance of this bluff dotted over with fine cottages and prominent buildings as
viewed from the east side of the Mississippi is truly a beautiful scene-one which
strikes the stranger with astonishment in viewing a city, which for fine business blocks,
beautiful residences and grand romantic scenery surroundings is not surpassed by any
city in the Western States (Republican, November 21, 1856).
Figure 14: Detail 1855 W. J. Gilbert panoramic view of Dubuque (New York: Endicott & Co.
Lithographers, 1855)
The 1855 Guilbert lithograph (Figure 14), depicts the bluffs between West Third (to the right of
the Cathedral at far left) to West Fifth (at far right, the Lorimer Hotel being the very large building)
show an extensive cluster of houses on the Fenelon Bluff, immediately northwest from St. Raphael's
Cathedral. West 3rd Street is shown to the right of the Cathedral (at far left) and West 5th Street, is less
distinct, is well to the right, beyond the grapevines shown on the bluff front. Not yet built is the
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Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
~~'l':~ '''~
Rhomberg house. The larger bluff top edifices are perhaps prospective institutions? Subsequent
images do not show this level of bluff top development.
Early City Council actions affected developing streets in this area. Austin Adams and others
asked the Council on September 15, 1856, to establish a formal grade on Fenelon Place. Most curious
were several actions relative to Summit Street. Summit was laid out 40' wide between West 3rd and
West 5th and ran between City Lots 734 and 721 in I. S. Jannett's plat. The street was to take 20' from
each of the lots. Apparently developers blocked the street given the note that the "street has been
obstructed much to the inconvenience of the residents in the vicinity and it being the only access to 5th
Street." The Council acted on March 23, 1857, recommending that the City accept the street and
directed the City Engineer to remove the obstructions. That action was re-approved on April 20 and
May 4, 1857 in response to the petition of A. S. Bunting and 25 other individuals. As late as July 13,
1857 Ed Mattox communicated to the Council relative to re-opening Summit Street. West 5th Street
was frequently on the Council docket and it is difficult to know which segment of that street was being
considered. The south side ditch along the road, between Bluff Street and the top of the hill was
judged to be too shallow and caused flooding on the lower parts of the street. The Council
appropriated $185 to deepen it. The Committee on Streets, charged with examining possible street
connections in the area between Hill and Julien, reported on September 1, 1856, "it would require to
make 5th Street an easy grade, a cutting from 10 to 15 feet in depth, and to do this, would cost some
three thousand dollars or more." Similar grading was needed to extend 5th beyond Hill Street and if
that work was done, it "would in effect make property of less value than at present." The City
Marshall was instructed on October 10, 1854 to pay damages resulting from opening West 5th across
the land of Thomas Kelly. On October 1, 1855, the Council adopted the City Engineer's formal profile
for West 5th "west of the old incorporation line" and for Hill Street, between Julien and West 5th Street.
The Council received complaints on June 2, 1857, that contractor P. Wells, grading on West 5th, was
undermining fences. On June 9, 1856 the City Engineer presented a profile for West 5th, between Bluff
and Hill Street. A petition was received to further extend West 5th beyond Hill Street.
The earliest detailed reports of house building atop or near Prospect Hill date to 1856-57 when
a lengthy list of new houses and cottages clustered mainly along the east base of the hill along he east
side of Bluff or on the 5th Street hill to the north. A number of listings were along Prospect, which
then continued as far south as West Fourth. Fenelon and West Fourth were being both used, and West
Fourth apparently ascended the bluff front at least in the imagination. J. A. Parker had a frame
dwelling on West 4th, west of Prospect. Rev. G. R. Trowbridge had his frame dwelling on the corner
of 4th and Prospect. Machinist J. W. Glynn lived in a new frame residence on Fenelon between Bluff
and Locust. E. W. Deitrich had finished a $6,500 brick mansion on the comer of Fenelon and Summit.
The Cannon Brothers, grocers, similarly built a two-story brick residence on Fenelon, east of Summit.
Gardener Ed Mattox built two two-story dwellings on Summit. Land Agent J. M. Simmeral built a
fine double brick building on the summit of West 5th for $3,200. Other listings in the newspaper could
not be found in the 1857 city directory (Herald, March 8, 1857).
The missionary Dr. Dean was quoted as comparing the vista from the bluff tops with the
scenery around Hong Kong. The editor of the Daily Times, writing in mid-1857, lauded the bluffs for
their protection against the Mosquito plague:
Having taken our abode on the bluffs, to our great chagrin, we have no attentions from
this gauzy-winged, bed-room bird. It is understood, however, that such of our adipose
aldermen as live below the bluffs, have its nocturnal respects (Daily Times, July 31,
October 31,1857). '
16
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
The same writer also encouraged the planting and preservation of trees on the bluffs:
On the bluffs, every street should be decorated with trees as soon as it is graded, by so
doing, in a very short time the walks there will be unexcelled in delightfulness.
Dubuque can be made into an arena of beauty, if we begin now, and make no halt for
improvements. . . The groves on the bluffs should be only judiciously thinned. . .For the
bluffs we feel especial concern, the forest growth there must be spared. We know the
denuding proponents of the Yankee, and his passion to slash, in this case, must be
checked (ibid., October 29, 1857).
A major housing development was a string of houses built by Rufus Rittenhouse during 1857.
The Daily Times reported:
Rufus Rittenhouse is building a block of eight brick houses on Summit street, near the
residence of Mr. Pinto, opposite the property ofE. Mattocks, and within five minutes
walk of the Post Office. They are admirably located for first class residences, having a
good neighborhood, and a delightful view of the country. Mr. R. is erecting them for
the purpose of accommodating our citizens with good homesteads. They are well built,
have every convenience that a family requires, and will be sold, we understand, on
favorable terms.
These buildings survive today as 419-21, 427-33 and 439-49 Summit. Reference to the proximity of
the downtown envisioned a brisk walk down West 5th Street (Daily Times, August 24, 1857).
Life on the bluffs brought with it additional costs and inconveniences. As the following
account indicates, anything hauled up from the city below brought with it a premium in delivery
charges. Water too was commonly hauled for those residences and tenements that lacked storage
cisterns. By 1865, mandatory cisterns for every residence were advocated and it was claimed that the
city would 1,000 more residents had such an ordinance been enacted ten years earlier (Herald, August
2, 1865):
Filling Up: Everybody wants to live in the Fourth Ward this fall, from some
unaccountable reason. They say it is very healthy in that locality, victuals taste better,
the air is pure, and as for the society, that is a No.1, the cream of the city. Those bluffs
are not hard to climb, and no person grumbles about giving a dollar extra for having a
cord of wood hauled up there.. .In many parts of the ward there is a bustle and moving
that reminds one of Mayday in New York -families filling up unoccupied tenements,
and parsons searching for a dwelling to move into.. . (Herald, September 29, 1864).
During the post-Civil War years, the bluffs began to be appreciated for their aesthetic and
healthy qualities. The Herald printed this excellent description in mid-1866:
On The Bluffs. - The stranger visiting Dubuque should not fail to go to the bluffs just
back of the city, and feast his eyes on the beautiful panorama spread out before him. It
is a sight well worth seeing; worth the pencil of a Rembrandt or Alliston; worthy a
niche in the catalogues of American scenery; worthy the most impassioned rhapsodies
on the part of every true enthusiast. Below the spectator many hundred feet, lies the
business portion of Dubuque, with its rows of substantial brick buildings, clean
pavements, glittering spires, stately churches, quiet dwelling houses, and the might
father of waters, like a broad belt of silver, murmuring at their base. Directly opposite
17
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
are the high bluffy shores of Illinois an Wisconsin, now clothed in all the glory of
nature's brightest green, while Dunleith with its spacious elevator and depot buildings
lies sleeping in the distance. The whole scene is one of sublimity, beauty and grandeur,
and when viewed in the sunlight with the flickering shadows of waving trees and
passing clouds cannot fail of impressing the spectator with the most profound feelings
of awe and admiration. . ..
On the heights are to be found many splendid private residences. Great taste and
elegance is displayed in the arrangement of the grounds, and many pastures of flowers
are almost exotic in their beauty and fragrance, wile apple trees of proportions and
fruitfulness that would compare favorably with those of the old Bay State, are quite
common. We could not help admiring the magnificent grapery of Platt Smith, Esq.,
which sends forth at the proper season a perfect harvest of the most luscious grapes.
When they get ripe may we be there to see. We should be happy to give an extended
description of the many palatial houses on the bluffs, but space forbids. All we have to
say is, that if anyone can walk around the suburbs of Dubuque for an hour and not have
their ideas of the city expanded, enlarged and strengthened, we are willing to stand treat
and they can pay for it (Herald, June 12, 1866).
Living on the bluffs and getting there readily were too different things. When wet the unpaved
streets up the bluff were barely passable and when wet and frozen, the Herald observed "a person
could go allover the city with a pair of skates, while those unfortunate individuals living on the bluffs
were forced to adopt the style that the serpent assumed after tempting Eve, or else go up to the edge
and roll off." The same source described the fate of a resident living at the head of Julien Avenue who
tired to go to the city for his usual dinner. That individual "tumbled down three hundred and forth-
nine times and cracked his skull in twelve places" getting to his meal (Herald, February 16, 1867).
Critically vital street improvements greatly facilitated bluff-top living. Hill Street was first
improved in mid-1867 with a combination of grading, macadamizing and the construction of stone
retaining walls. A Mr. Brophy, a resident of the city for several years, was a veteran of stonework at
West Point, Fort Sumter (Charleston, South Carolina) and the foundation for New York City's Crystal
Palace, had the contract for the stonework. This back way to the bluff top was likely used for many
years, at least by wheeled traffic. The opening of Hill Street resulted in a flurry of commercial
buildings around its junction with Julien Avenue (now University) and West 8th Street. Harkett's
Nursery, established in 1872 at West 5th and Hill, was the furthest out example along Hill (Herald, July
31, 1867).
Plans for West 3rd Street improvements followed later that same year. Thomas Harrington got
the contract to excavate, gutter, macadamize and also to lay up massive stone retaining walls along that
street. The residents along the street paid a special assessment of $1,500 towards the work. The
Herald considered the work "of great importance, and when it is completed it will add materially to the
beauty of the city s well as increase the value of property in its neighborhood." The work under the
Harrington contract unfortunately ceased when the money did and floods wiped out what little had
been accomplished. It is difficult to determine how much work was accomplished during 1867. An
early September report described the Third Street work as running from Bluff to Summit "up which no
carriage has been hauled for eight years, is being made one of the easiest up-hill roads in the city, by
grading and macadamizing, to prevent the ravages of water, solid stone ways will be constructed to
convey it down upon each side of the road." The cost was put at $4,500. The city committed another
$1,000 in August 1868 but no bids were received. An additional $500 resulted in the awarding of a
new contract to F. Beyer. Again the Herald noted the great need for the work and lauded Mayor Sol
Turck for cutting the "red tape of committees" in getting the work underway. It wasn't long before the
18
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
, ,,:,,,," .,:~. .-...." .....Vi"". ""(i,.:.--:---". ---... ~
major was being criticized for the debt which the city took on. The series of Samuel Root Third Street
photographs included in this report depict this street work of 1867 -68. William Rebman had a contract
for $6,500 to macadamize West Third between Bluff and Summit in 1870 (Herald, August 21,
September 5,1867; October 24,1868; December 18,1870).1
Things went better in improving West 5th Street. The Herald reported in late August 1867
"Work on the Fifth Street improvement has been fairly completed. With Third and Fifth streets
improved so as to allow carriage access to residences on the bluffs in this neighborhood, that portion of
the city will be largely benefited. Shot Tower operator James Hughes picked up specimens of lead ore
along the grading route along West 5th, and the same source boasted "Dubuque builds her streets on
mineral wealth and thinks nothing odd." In other words, lead mining properties were so common
place, streets could be graded across some known sites. As was the case with West Third, this street
was being graded and macadamized at a cost of$6,000 (Herald, August 21, September 5,1867;
September 11, 1867)."
Figure 15: Samuel Root image, to southwest, from West 8t and Main streets, 1877,
the first day of Service on the Hill Street Railway. The Rhomberg House is
visually prominent on the bluff to left of center along with other houses to south
(Center For Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo Collection, #LHH 4674)
Even as these two eastern gateways to the Fenelon area were being improved attention was also
being paid to its rear approach, via Hill Street. Expenditures along that steep ascent totaled $1,200 in
1867. The Herald described the street as "one of the most important in the city, which has long been
in a deplorable condition, a mere gully, has been graded and macadamized, and a wall of solid
masonry built, to prevent the road bed from being worn away again by the current that comes pouring
down the ravine." The City Engineer was reported as conducting a survey of Fenelon Place in late
April 1872 "preparatory to the grading of the same." During the first week of May a party of City
officials returned to that same street to inspect its sidewalks, which were the subject of a dispute
between the property owners and the City. They determined to leave the sidewalks at a ten-feet length
(Herald, September 5, 1867; April 24, May 5, 1872)."
I Bluff mania didn't captivate everyone, one notable exception was M. Allison, probably the son of William B. Allison,
who left the heights for a home on Locust in 1867 (Herald, July 21, 1867). West Third was also being improved to the
west of Hill Street during 1867, with the expenditure of$l,OOO to grade and macadamize that section (Herald, September
5, 1867).
19
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 16: 1872 Birds Eye View Lithograph Detail
The 1872 aerial view depicts a fairly compactly developed Fenelon neighborhood. Many of the
houses are quite substantial. West 3rd Street ascends the bluff to the north of the Cathedral. West 5th,
with its recognizable northward jog from West 4th at the base of the bluff, parallels West 3rd to the
north. As of this time only the north side of West 3rd, both sides of Fenelon, both sides of West 5th,
and Burch and Summit streets were built up. The 1872 image, in sharp contrast to period photographs,
represents particularly the area south of West 3rd Street as being tree-covered. Two houses are visible
on Cardiff Street although the street itself is not drawn in.
A correlation of the 1873-74 city directory entries for this area results in 32 occupied addresses
as of 1873. No Burch Street entries were found. Nine residences were addressed to Summit, above
Fenelon. Sixteen addresses were along Fenelon, clustered mostly towards its western end, with Julius
Grave's residence being the easternmost listed, being six houses east of Summit. Eight West 3rd Street
listings were all (save for the Langworthy-Massey residence just east of Hill Street) on the north side
of that street. These too clustered towards Summit. Two residences had a number of boarders, the
third house on West 3rd east of Summit had eight listings, while Graves had two boarders. Two other
homes had a single border. All of the four West 5th Street listings clustered on either side of Summit
and that street.
Those of our citizens who have not been on the hills for some time
would be surprised to see the improvements of all kinds that is going on.
Houses are being built everywhere, and new streets are being laid out in
all directions. Many down town people are moving on the bluffs. It is
thought that the population west of Bluff street will reach 12,000
(Herald, July 12, 1877).
The frequent freshets down the various drainages would wash out larger stones and obstruct the
roads leading up the bluffs. Such was the case on West Third, atop the bluff as of late October 1880.
The editors of the Herald called for their removal or their pulverization into smaller obstructions. A
20
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
similar washout or cave in took place in August 1895 at the head of West Third, offering "a temporary
inconvenience to the traveler (Herald, October 29, November 10, 1880; August 29, 1895).
While the bluffs were growing increasingly popular for homesteading, it was finally the
exhaustion of flatland lots that drove the multitudes to the heights around the city. Reliable and
frequent car service also played a key factor. The Herald recorded two new developments in the city
during 1880. The first was the increased use of the streetcars for pleasure riding, chiefly mothers and
their children, on pleasant afternoons. The second was the scarcity of convenient building lots.
"Building lots below the bluff are getting scarce. The few remaining command a good price" the
newspaper observed. Demolition and replacement on these coveted lots was also growing more
commonplace (Herald, September 28 1880).
By early 1881 Fenelon Place was once again boasting some emerging tree cover. Residents
were reported trimming their shade trees along their street in early May (Herald, May 1, 1881).
Water main extensions were authorized for Burch south to West 3rd, along Summit south to
West 3rd and along the full length of Cardiff Street in 1887. Hydrants were put in place at the comers
of James and West 3rd and West 3rd and Summit (Herald, June 11, 1887).
'...............
Figure 17: View to the southeast, Bluff behind A. A. Cooper Carriage House, West 4t and Bluff
streets, c.mid-1880s. The original Fourth Street Elevator building is visible at far left, the Platt Smith
House is at the center (Center For Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo Collection, #AAC 8096)
21
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 18: Detail, 1888 Map of Dubuque (survey area boundary lines in black)
The Subdivision of Lot 700 (Figure 18), originally comprising John and George streets is of
particular interest because the lots are very small in size and because this plat preceded what became
Cooper Street. The earlier plat included the south side of West 5th Street. Note also that Fenelon was
still called West 4th and that the larger area was called Prospect Hill, a name that was used in its
principal plat (Map of the City of Dubuque, Iowa, 1888. New York: Leggo Brothers & Company).
Street railways, as earlier noted, facilitated through-traffic across the district and encouraged
the development of Fenelon Place and other western points. The National Demokrat observed in 1876
"Reasons that Dubuque has to tie together the settlement on the Bluffs and West Dubuque through a
street railway have brought various plans at different times." 'A Lieutenant Sloan "from the East"
visited the city at that time and suggested "a steam elevator...a cable drawn car with a line up and
down.. .4th Street best for this." Regular streetcar service would then take riders further west. Note
that this meant that the elevated line would communicate between two separate car systems, one below
and the other above the bluff (National Demokrat, May 25, 1876).
Other developers were confidant that streetcars could be hauled up the bluff fronts. At the
same time initial efforts to establish an uphill true streetcar service proceeded forward and what was
first called the "Julien Avenue Railroad Company" was incorporated and given a 20-year right-of-way.
It began service a year later (in the meantime Mr. Beavis' West Dubuque Omnibus line was packed,
using the same point of ascent, Herald, July 25, August 31,1876) as the West Dubuque Street Railroad
and would provide successful service to the suburbs, following West 8th, Hill Street, etc. until 1884
(National Demokrat, May 25, June 15, 1876; Die Iowa, September 13, November 8, 1877).
The 4th Street Elevator idea didn't assume solid form until 1883. Mr. J. K. Graves announced
plans to sink a tunnel 50-100' into the bluff. The gas-powered elevator would then lift vertically.
Within two weeks the precursor of the present system was decided upon and contracts let. The Herald
noted "When completed it will be one of the most beneficial and best enterprises of the season, and we
22
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
sincerely hope the projectors of this scheme will be liberally rewarded for their enterprise (Herald, July
15,29,1883)." Legend states that the first scheme was simply a private convenience for Graves who
wished to go home in Fenelon Place for lunch and a nap each workday. Neighbors were soon paying a
nickel to use the system and the scale grew more complex. The Herald account references multiple
promoters and the system required an operator to be on duty so this story is likely apocryphal. Fires
provided opportunities to upgrade the original scheme and the several different setups visible in the
historical photographs (see below) are readily explained by these bumings. The first fire destroyed the
street elevator in 1887. A second blaze destroyed the power house at the top of the hill in 1893. The
Weekly Times chided the negligent firemen for allowing the loss of the twin cars as well:
The two cars stood under the shed midway between the top and bottom and with very
little trouble they might have been blocked and saved, but a half dozen firemen stood
watching the fire from the bottom of the hill and let them run down and be destroyed. It
was a remarkable piece of supineness for the men who are well paid for the energies
they expend for the city (Weekly Times, May 26,1893).
William B. Lapham, 4th Street Elevator Superintendent, lived at 119 Fenelon Place as of 1888 (City
Directory) .
Figure 19: 1889 View of Fourth Street Elevator (Dubuque: The Key City of Iowa: Her Advantages as a
Trade Center. J. K. Graves residence at upper left, Platt Smith residence at right center. This image
depicts the second elevator head house, following rebuilding after the 1884 fire. Note the quarried
terrace where the elevator head house is located (Dubuque: Wescott & Pittan Publishers, 1889)
This 1889 lithograph of the elevator depicts a barren bluff front with only a scattering of
residences near the bluff front. Julius Graves established a private elevator system in 1882 to expedite
his lunch visits home to Fenelon Place. His franchise was awarded on June 5, 1882 and the first trip
took place on July 25, 1882. Grave's gardener ran the steam-powered affair from the top of the bluff,
and provided his boss with three-daily trips. The July 19, 1884 fire and neighborly interest caused the
elevator to be rebuilt more substantially. That system is depicted in the above image. The elevator
23
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
was again consumed by fire in 1893. The Weekly Times observed "it will be greatly missed by the cliff
dwellers." The financial recession prevented Graves from again rebuilding and a private company
resulted, titled the Fenelon Place Elevator Company. The new design, with three rails and a central
bypass, remains in use today. In 1912, Clifton B. Trewin (10 Fenelon Place) became sole owner. In
1916 he rebuilt the head house and included a second floor room that was used for neighborhood
meetings (Weekly Times, May 26, 1893; "Fenelon Place Elevator Company History," www.dbq.com/
fenp1co/history.html).2
The Cathedral and Fenelon Place residents were consistent in their efforts to eliminate favored
points of intimate rendezvous. The Fourth Street Elevator pagoda was removed in the mid-1920s for
this reason. The following account dates to 1895:
Lovers' Lane Closed: The Well Known Trysting Place Barred to the Public
Lovers lane, between Fourth and Fifth streets, is no more Lovers Lane. It is about as
loveless a place as one would find now. The Fourth street Elevator company, a base,
heartless corporation, with soul attuned only to the jingle of the almighty dollar, has
begun the dastardly work of putting up a hog-tight fence at each end and the place will
now be given over to the propagation of Russian thistles and things. With Rhomberg's
park closed this announcement is the nature of a swipe below the belt (Herald,
September 10, 1895).
In October 1901 the City promised to build wooden stairs to link West 3rd Street and the
Elevator, work that would be "a great convenience to persons living in that vicinity." City Carpenter
Crawford would build a set of wooden steps from Third Street to the Fenelon Place Elevator.
Crawford had just finished building a new Madison Street stair system. These steps might have linked
the Elevator directly south to West Third from near the crest of that street (see historical photographs
of West Third Street, viewed east from the crest which appear to show these steps) (Herald, October
31, 1901).
Figure 20: Head of elevator, c.1915
(Center for Dubuque History, Loras College)
2 Perhaps a spoof, but the Herald reported in mid-July 1883 that the elevator was to be re-designed on the vertical plan,
with a shaft cut into the bluff with the same machinery as was then in use in the "passenger elevators now in use in the
Grand Pacific hotel in Chicago." (Herald, July 15, 1883).
24
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
'r:.....~-... ':.T~'~~""""
Figure 21: Future right-of-way of Raymond Place, view north from foot of Fenelon, c.1915
Collins House visible to the left (Center for Dubuque History, Loras College)
Figure 22: Osker Family at the top of the elevator, c.1915
(Center for Dubuque History, Loras College)
25
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 22A: Contemporary view of Figure 22, view northeast
(Photo by J. Jacobsen, April 2005)
Figure 23: 1889 Perspective Map of the City of Dubuque, Iowa, 1889 (H. Wellge)
This panoramic view is of great value for dating surviving houses in the survey area. Cardiff
Street has been platted and fully built up, south of West 3rd Street by this time. The Catholic Cemetery
is visible as a rounded plateau, at lower left of center, below West 3rd Street. No houses are shown on
the south side of West 3 rd Street, apart from the Cardiff Street comers and that side of the street west of
Burch Street. Fenelon Place is curiously labeled West 4th Street in this image. There is no indication
that it was ever so called. The entire area is largely and substantially built up but many vacant parcels
are shown and Hill Street is largely undeveloped.
26
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 24: 1889 Perspective Map of the City of Dubuque, Iowa, (H. Wellge)
Survey area boundaries marked in black.
Figure 25: Enlarged detail, 1889 Perspective Map of the City of Dubuque (east part of survey area)
Figure 26: Enlarged detail, 1889 Perspective Map of the City of Dubuque (south part of survey area)
27
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 27: Detail, 1889 Perspective Map of the City of Dubuque (central-north part of survey area)
Figure 28: Alex Simplot's 1897 view east from head of 41 Street Elevator (Center For Dubuque
History, Loras College).
The perspective of Figure 28g is taken from the terrace location to the west of the Elevator
head house. The present day Raymond Place runs behind or east of the fenced walkway shown at front
left of center. No houses are depicted and little tree cover on the bluff front. Note that carriages could
ascend to the very bluff top on what is now the north side of Fenelon Place.
28
--
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
,"if'l'".._ ~; <,<"'"
Extensive development was taking place to the west of Hill Street, south of Julien Avenue (now
University) during the 1890s. Winona Avenue was opened between Hill and West 5th streets on May
23, 1891 and lots were being sold along that avenue in Deming & HOlT'S Addition, in the vicinity of
Harkett's Nursery, beginning June 1 (Herald, May 24, 31, 1891).
The east side Hill Street between West 5th and West 3rd streets developed quite late, infilling
only after the mid-1890s. The reason for the delay is not determined. The street was an important
streetcar arterial beginning in the early 1870s and development along Hill had followed immediately.
Numerous commercial and industrial firms dotted Hill on its west side. The list included Hughes' Shot
Tower, Harketts Nursery and a brickyard. Houses are known to have been built further west that West
Third. Below West Fifth, rocky prominences largely precluded residential development.
An early mention of Hill Street dates to 1892 when residents protested a planned sewer project.
The City planned to connect the Burch Street sanitary sewer into the Hill Street storm sewer.
Neighbors hired attorney R. W. Stewart to oppose the plan. The City countered that flush tanks, set
into the Burch Street sewer would keep both systems clean. The Herald offered a plausible
explanation of why a unified sewer system was not being proposed and why the area remained
undeveloped:
it will a hard matter to get the folks around Harkett's nursery to believe this. They insist
that if there is to be a sanitary sewer on Burch and Third streets it must connect with the
main system without the use ofthe storm water sewer. The natural route would be
down Hill street and Julien avenue but J. A. Rhomberg who owns the long stretch of
unimproved property along these streets, and other property holders object to the heavy
assessments they would have to pay to run the sewer through an almost solid bed of
rock. Capt. [Alfred] Hobbs advances further reasons against this plan proposed by the
city for the relief of the Burch and West Third street folks, who have been clamoring for
sewer connections for several years past.
Hobbs reported that at least one resident had already connected his privy with the sewer line and
consequently the entire line to the river was in a "disgusting condition." The sewer line between Burch
and Hill and 8th and Bluffhad been built without manhole access and couldn't be cleaned out. Finally
the mouth of the sewer had collapsed and there was no functioning sewer system (Herald, August 19,
1892).
Janet Groves Ferguson (1829-1905), 9 Burch Street, was born on the Isle of Wight. She
married the Scot architect Archibald Ferguson in Scotland in 1850 and came to Dubuque in 1856. She
was a city pioneer when she died in 1905 (Herald, July 20, 1905).
Architecturally, the key transformation of the neighborhood came at the turn-of-the century
with the rebuilding of much of Fenelon Place in the Classical Revival style. This trend impacted the
neighborhood as a whole, and at the very least, was represented in replacement porches. Many homes
received their first substantial porches as a result of this building trend. While there was some belated
infilling, a good number of surviving early homes, and certainly a number of frame houses, were
replaced at this time.
Public transportation, that is to say electric streetcars, only achieved technical efficiency during
the early years of the 20th Century. This efficiency was achieved by consolidation, technical
improvements and adequate capitalization. Reliable and efficient car service could only then truly
drive suburban expansion and allowed for the final infilling of still empty lots on the bluffs.
Dubuque's streetcar system was substantially re-built between 1902 and 1906. For the Fenelon area,
29
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
the 1906 rebuilding of the 8th Street carline was a very positive and long-sought improvement. The
entire right-of-way was re-Iaid with new "T" rails. The work was necessarily expensive and difficult.
The Herald noted "Dubuque will have as perfect a car system as it to be found in any city of its size in
the country." A day later the same source observed "The Union Electric Co. has been a great factor in
building up the city and has given Dubuque a model street car service. This has enabled the poor man
a chance to build on cheaper ground (Herald, August 11, 12, 1906)."
Figure 29: 1907 Detail (American Memories, Library of Congress)
In this view the Platt Smith grape vine terraces are still visible and the pagoda adjoins the
Elevator, but there are no houses set along the immediate bluff front. The Platt Smith house and
Lover's Lane remain visible, while former the Rhomberg residence is well to the right in this image,
reflecting the considerable distance between Fenelon and the 5th Street hills.
The Waterworks plant on West 3rd was in place by 1937, at which time twin 10" and 12" inch
mains were laid along West 3rd Street, Burch, and West 5th and Hill streets to connect with a new water
tower located at College and West 3rd streets. It was hoped that the guaranteed water pressure would
lower residents' fire insurance premiums by guaranteeing water pressure for the neighborhood. The
waterworks plant on West 3rd was graded and landscaped at this time (Telegraph-Herald, May 23,
1937) .
Figure 30: Fourth Street Elevator, c.1915, view west
(Center For Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo Collection, #FBL 4826)
30
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 3 depicts 512 Fenelon with extensive east side double-decker porches (1896), the
Elevator building without the pagoda (demolished 1920-21), 515 Fenelon (1906), and 410 Raymond
Place (1910-11) with its double-decker porches. By this time the bluff front is largely grown over with
young tree growth.
Many of the streets remained unpaved and largely unimproved well past the turn of the century.
Final grade on West Third Street wasn't set until 1908. That street was paved from Burch to Alpine
with asphaltic concrete and given concrete curbing in 1915, at a cost of$15,527. Fenelon Place,
between Raymond Place and Burch, was similarly paved in 1913 for $8,558. The full length of Cardiff
received a sanitary sewer in 1914. Burch Street was given brick guttering between West 5th and
Fenelon, for $1,065 in 1914 (Telegraph-Herald, December 28, 1913; December 27, 1914; December
26, 1915).
Streetcar lines flanked the neighborhood along Dodge and West 8th - HiII- West 3 fd streets. These
were supplemented by the Fenelon Place Elevator. West 3fd Street then served as the boundary
between the 1st and 2nd Wards and the majority ofthe neighborhood was in the latter ward. This map
continues to depict the Catholic Cemetery on West 3rd Street. Note that Augusta Avenue apparently
then angled into West 3fd just to the east of James Street. The black dots locate Telegraph-Herald
subscribers and these locate many later infill houses along the south side of West 3fd and the same side
of West 5th. Undeveloped is Cooper Place although the street is depicted. Raymond Place is called
John Street.
31
-
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 32: Late 1940's image, view toward the southwest, showing undeveloped Cooper Place
(Center For Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo Collection, #SCH 037)
This later date image (Figure 32:) depicts the Fenelon neighborhood before its final
development, Cooper Place was platted and built up. At the left of center are 512 Fenelon (1896), the
Elevator building, and 410 Raymond Place (1910-11). At rear center, from left to right are 515
Fenelon (1906), 536 Fenelon (1922), and 560 Fenelon (1901). At rear far right are the Claridge
Apartments (1929). Still visible is the incline of Lovers' Lane and the stone retaining walls associated
with it and West 5th Street.
Developers and Kev Houses:
One early landmark house was that of Cornelius Collins, who, in 1867, built a $3,000 five-
room brick or stone house "on the side of the bluff [at the head of 6th Street], among a mass of rocks,
where no one would think of erecting a house." Termed "one of the finest residences in the city _ It
can be seen from all parts oftown, and commands a fine view of the river, north or south." While not
in Fenelon proper, Collins was a significant home builder in the area. He came to the city in 1841, he
traded his labor in exchange for the brick work on his first house. By 1867 he had built 11 substantial
houses in this part of the city (Herald, July 12, 1867).3
Rufus Rittenhouse built up the west side of Summit Street in 1857 when he erected a block of
eight houses. The houses were said to be "admirably located" and in "a good neighborhood" with a
"delightful view" (Times, August 24, 1857).
Julius Rhomberg built his own palatial house on the West 5th Street Hill but he also built up the
general area. He offered three new brick houses for sale in late 1869, all located on his hill, and all just
three minutes' walk from the downtown. Rhomberg's impact on the Fenelon area came in the forms of
his promotion of bluff top living as well as his West 5th Street improvements (Herald, August 27,
1869).
3 A large rock outcropping known as the "Pulpit" stood above Collin's house. It was blown up inmid-1869 to protect the
house below it (Herald, May 11, 1869). Collins started a foundation for a new brick building on West 5th Street in the
spring of 1881 (Herald, April 18, May 19,1881).
32
~;~','~~~,~~;:~'"
::F"';""'~ 1':' ~:~'~"j!',:,}~ ~,f.':~ '
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
-~ " ':~!'.7J
'-"'~;
A major Fenelon area developerlbuilder was John McCoy. He purchased the William
Chamberlain lot adjoining Julius Grave's house on Fenelon and announced plans to build an "elegant
and substantial brick residence" on the parcel that same season in early 1869. The Herald noted "Mr.
McCoy is one of the men who largely aid in the improvement and growth of our city." When the
Chamberlains offered the parcel for sale, the Herald added "This is one of the pleasantest places in the
city. A large handsome well built house, ample grounds in a most elegant excellent neighborhood _
there is everything to make it a desirable home (Herald, May 16, July 1, 1869).
House building and swapping on Fenelon Place and in the neighborhood proceeded at a
feverish pace during 1869. John McCoy sold a new house on Fenelon to J.K. Duncan for $2,325. W.
H. Robbins sold his Summit Street residence to Alpheus Palmer for $4,000. "Both purchases," noted
the Herald, "are considered bargains by knowing ones." The Fenelon sale by McCoy apparently
involved a lot he purchased from George Gray in March 1869 for $600 (Herald, March 9, May 2, 8,9,
1869).
Early in 1874 George Burch purchased and occupied what was called the Scott Mansion on
West 3rd Street. The Scott family occupied Mayor Sol Turck former house on Fenelon Place, where
they suffered a robbery in 1876. Mrs. Phil Ryan purchased the C. Mason property on Fourth west of
the bluff, that consisted of three houses and lots (Herald, May 1, 3, 8, 1874).
The northeast portion of Fenelon Place remained undeveloped as of 1940. It was platted and
streets were laid out along with the rest of the neighborhood but the lots remained bare. Dean and
Regina Cooper re-platted the area as Cooper Place with a half-boulevard focal point. The plat included
Gilmore Street and Raymond Place, both of which were named after Raymond Gilmore, Dean
Cooper's grandfather. Two houses were built on the west end of the plat in 1940 but other
developments were delayed until the early 1950s. The Coopers built a small number of rental
properties at the east end of the plat, including a double-minimal traditional plan at 416-18 Raymond
Place. That double house was veneered with salvaged stone from the demolished A. A. Cooper
mansion at 5th and Bluff (the "Greystone"). They also assembled the Lustron cottage (515 Cooper
Place) and adjoining cottages on Cooper Place and Raymond Place. Most of the other lots were sold
off and built on individually, and examples such as 595 Cooper Place were self-built. Residents later
furnished Cooper Park with play equipment. At least one cottage on Cooper Place was demolished by
a developer with the intention of building a larger tenement. The Coopers donated bluff front land to
the city with a promise of park development and the opening of the sidewalk to West 5th Street, but
nothing has been done along those lines (Interview with Ms. Patricia Schreiber, June 8, 2005).
Area Landmarks:
The Fenelon Place or Prospect Hill area is much more defined by its stark topography,
particularly the Third and Fifth street approaches, the former Catholic Cemetery site and the elevator
approach. There are just two major non-residential entities in proximity to the area, these being the
Fourth Street Elevator and the West Third Street Water Reservoir. Both are excluded from this survey
and the former is listed on the National Register of Historic Places as part of the Cathedral Historic
District. The 7.12 million gallon water reservoir was established in 1914 as a major part of the belated
creation of an effective municipal water system. The reservoir failed to meet initial expectations
because algae infestations required bi-monthly drainings and cleanings and the reservoir was never full
for that reason. The reservoir was covered in 1922 and this problem was eliminated (Telegraph-
Herald, August 24, 1930).
33
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Individual House Images:
4th Street Elevator:
Figure 33: The Farley 4t Street Elevator, c.mid-1880s, view west from West 4th Street
(Photo EVM7525, Center For Dubuque History, Loras College)
Figure 34: 4t Street Elevator, view west, c.1885
(Photo RM 1014, Center For Dubuque History, Loras College)
34
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 35: 41 Street Elevator, view west along West 41
(Souvenir Gems of Dubuque, 1897)
Figure 36: Fourth Street Elevator, view west, c.1910
(Center For Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo Collection, #7525)
35
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 37: West 20 and Locust, view northeast, c.1915 (postcard view)
( www.freeoages.historv.rootsweb.com )
Figure 38: West Fourth Street west from Locust, c.1920 (post card)
( www.freeoages.historv.rootsweb.com )
36
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 39: View northwest from West 5 and Locust streets, c.1870-75
(Photo 7112, Center For Dubuque History, Loras College)
Figure 40: West 6th Street, view west from the roof of the Herald Building, Farley Mansion, c.1890
(Photo LHH 4912, HAM 846, Center For Dubuque History, Loras College)
37
West 3rd Street:
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 41: Samuel Root photo, view east from top of West Street, c.1869
(Center For Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo Collection, #1407)
Figure 42: Samuel Root photo, view northwest towards north side of West 3rd Street, c.1869
(Center For Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo Collection, #1374)
38
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 43: Samuel Root photo, view east from top of West 3 r Street, north side of street, c.1869
(Center For Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo Collection, #1405)
Figure 44: Samuel Root photo, view northeast towards north side of West 3rd Street, c.1869
541 West 3rd (Thomas Flaherty House) is visible at left of center
(Center For Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo Collection, #1375)
39
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 45: Samuel Root photo, view southeast from just west of St. Mary Street, near base of West 3rd
Street, c.1869, showing close proximity of St. Raphael's Cathedral
(Center For Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo Collection, #1373)
Figure 46: Residence ofM. H. McCarthy, 256 West 3rd (Souvenir Gems of Dubuque)
(non-extant)
40
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 47: Rich House-890 (then 374) West 3r Street, 1897, view southeast
(Souvenir Gems of Dubuque, 1897)
Figure 48: Rich House-West 3r Street, 1890's, view southeast
(Dubuque County Historical Society)
41
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 49: Burch House, 380 West 3r Street, 1897, view northeast
(Souvenir Gems of Dubuque, 1897)
(non-extant, 901 West Third)
Figure 50: L. C. Bissell House, 900 (then 400) West 3r Street, 1897, view southwest
(Souvenir Gems of Dubuque, 1897)
42
,", '
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 51 : West Third Street viewed west from east of Burch, looking towards Hill Street
Houses in foreground, are right of center Geo. F. Atkins (now 971 West 3rd), B. M. Harger
(non-extant), and Fred Bell (non-extant). The back of 308 Hill is in the background, directly in line
with West 3rd Street (Souvenir Gems of Dubuque, 1897)
West 5th Street:
Figure 52: Watters House, 794 (then 360) West 5t
(Souvenir Gems, 1897)
43
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Fenelon Place/Street:
Figure 53: Fenelon Place, view west towards Summit, from near Fourth Street Elevator
(Center For Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo Collection, #NGL 1973)
Figure 54: Fenelon Place, viewed southeast, c.1870s
(Center For Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo Collection, #RM 1045, also as Ham-848)
44
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
This rare view of the south side of Fenelon, documents a range of frame houses which are non-
extant. Note the elaborate fencing and the contested broad sidewalks. This view was taken to the east
of Summit Street.
Figure 55: View east along Fenelon from west of Summit, c.1910
(Center For Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo Collection, #FBL 4710)
Figure 56: J. K. Graves Residence, Fenelon, 1866 (non-extant)
(Center For Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo Collection, #I<RE 132.1)
45
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 57: Residence ofHon. J. K. Graves, No. 25, Fenelon Place
(Andreas Illustrated Atlas, 1875, p. 332)
Figure 58: J. K. Graves House, view northwest, (non-extant)
(Center For Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo Collection, #RM 1148)
46
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 59: J. K. Graves House, Fenelon Place, view northwest, c.1870s
(Center For Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo Collection, #RM 1147.2)
Figure 60: Winter scene on Fenelon, view east from west of Summit, c.1897
(Souvenir Gems of Dubuque)
47
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 61: West Third and Fenelon Place, view northwest
521,541 West Third, 512-565 Fenelon Place are visible
(Telegraph-Herald Staff Photo, November 27, 1974)
Figure 62: 710,732,760 and 788 Fenelon Place, view southwest
(Telegraph-Herald Staff Photo, December 15, 1957)
48
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 63: 541, 565, 583 Fenelon Place, view northwest
Telegraph-Herald Staff Photo, December 15, 1957
Burch Street:
Figure 64: 409 (then 395) Burch, c.1900, view west
(Center For Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo Collection, #WHT 7121)
Figure 65: G. A. Shenkowitz residence, 409 Burch, c.1897
(Souvenir Gems of Dubuque)
49
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Summit Street:
Figure 66: Home of J.H. Kleine, 448 Summit (then 104 Summit) 1897, view east
Also visible to the left is 460 Summit. Note the carriage house visible at the right, also the plank
sidewalk and fence (Souvenir Gems of Dubuque)
Street Water Reservoir, view northeast towards West 3r
(Photo by J. Jacobsen, April 2005)
50
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Part II: North Main Or Madison Park NeighboJ;hood Historic Survey Report
Findings:
A proposed historic district (Figure 68) is recommended for this survey area. The
topographical focal point of the district is Seminary Hill or the east end of same. Clarke Drive, and the
cross or intersecting Madison and North Main streets comprise the district. Houses front north and
south along Clarke and east/west along the other two streets. Two houses, located outside of the
survey area (1906, 1924 North Main) were added to the district. Both are well-preserved brick gable
front Italianate style plans and they are located at a key intersection within the district. Of 40 houses,
18 are of brick construction. Half of the non-brick houses are located along both sides of Clarke Drive
to the west of Madison Street. Brick is the dominant building material along Clarke to the east of that
point and along North Main Street.
Figure 68: Proposed Historic District
(Map prepared by the City of Dubuque, 2005)
As is true with Fenelon Place, the proposed historic district's focal point is the southern
termination of North Main Street. That street, now Madison Park, abruptly ends at the top of a
limestone bluff. The district more broadly encompasses the eastern and southern end of Seminary Hill,
and its steeply pitched approaches along Madison and Clarke streets. Clarke Street follows the crest of
Seminary Hill westward but the district ends once the higher proportion of early house styles and brick
houses declines. The district has suffered minimal later-date infilling just a few of the small number of
non-contributing houses involve cases of recent construction.
The principal difference in the style and type makeup within the survey area is the
preponderance of vernacular types, principally gable fronts. There are 40 gable front or variations, two
side gable and one pyramid roof examples. Stylistic examples are earlier in date and style than are
51
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
those found in Fenelon Place. There are four Second Empire, one Federal, 11 Italianate, three Queen
Anne, seven Classical Revival and one Colonial Revival examples. Twentieth Century types are not
well represented. There are just three bungalows, a single Craftsman example, two four squares, one
Tudor Revival cottage, two minimal traditional, and one Colonial Revival cottage. Like Fenelon
Place, this survey area is completely residential in its makeup, save for a single storefront that is
located on the southwest comer of the area. There are no churches or institutional buildings present.
One large apartment complex replaced a house on Ellis and an Italianate house on North Madison was
transformed into an apartment.
Houses Built 1850-99
14
12
10
8
6
4
2
o
~ ~ ~ ~ A ~ AQ) ~ ~ n.~ ~
~<rj ~<d ~\d ~\Q \:f' <0' ~v ~CO ~'"'J !rJOS
CO<0 CO<r3 co\O co\O ~ ~ COCO co'O coOJ coOJ
~~ ~~ ~~ ~~ ~~ ~~ ~~ ~~ ~~ ~~
. Houses Built
1850-99
Figure 69:
Fifty-seven houses date to 1850-99. As was the case with Fenelon Place, many early frame
houses no longer exist and just nine houses pre-date 1875. All but two of these are located within the
proposed district and two "bookend" the east and west ends of Clarke within the district. Four
examples comprise a north/south running backbone of early houses along the west side of North Main
and on opposite sides of Clarke. Many of the disappeared houses are documented as having stood
along the north side of Seminary/Clarke, west of North Main. During the post-Civil War years these
lots were uniformly built up simultaneously. There was an apparent preference for south-facing homes
and during the treeless or clear-cut era of early Dubuque, these houses enjoyed an excellent view.
Seminary Hill proper was also developed prior to and after the Civil War and a clustering of Italianate
Villa examples were built along either side of North Main Street, below Seminary/Clarke. Sustained
development began during the later 1870s and continued through World War 1.
52
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
. 4
Houses Built 1900-54
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
o
J ~~ ()~ rj J <i
~ \::f ~v r;::f \::f r;::f
OJ\:S OJ t-..;. OJ 'j; Ojfl3 Oj~ OJ<:3
~t-..;. ~t-..;. ~t-..;. ~~ ~~ ~~
III Houses B ui It 1900-
54
Figure 70:
Thirty houses were built between 1900 and 1954. Just three houses postdate 1955. The
development of the survey area was sustained between 1875 and 1919. A few houses were added
during the late 1920s. A small number of post-World War II infilling (just five houses) and only three
houses postdate 1955. Half of the eight later-date houses, built 1949-88, located on Clarke west of
Madison. Three of the examples were on Madison or Ellis streets. The survey area is therefore
notable for its relatively early range of houses, by no means the earliest in date, but representative of a
sustained development, largely vernacular in type.
The earliest house building occurred along North Main and Seminary/Clarke. Madison was
built up south to north between the 187 Os and 1890s. Ellis's houses date to the same period. The west
end of Clarke was built up during the 1880s and 1890s. Lowell (formerly Liebnitz) was developed
between the 1890s and World War I, with nine of 13 houses dating between 1899 and 1910. Dorgan
Place dates to 1886-91 with two later houses. North Main, above Clarke, dates 1895-1913. The base
of Clarke was also late to infill due to the steep bluff fronts which flanked the street on both sides.
The Classical Revival style has a lesser presence within the survey area. Three of five
examples are found along Lowell Street, where they are intermixed with bungalow and Craftsman
examples. The Italianate examples, mostly side-hall plans, are almost all located along Clarke and
North Main. All of the Second Empire examples are on Clarke Street.
Descriptive Overview:
Like the Fenelon Place neighborhood, the North Main or Madison Park neighborhood occupied
a prominent bluff-top vista (Seminary Hill) and its residents enjoyed an excellent vista until
reforestation covered the completely denuded bluffs around the city. Seminary Hill, also like Fenelon,
is a general descriptor that covers a very broad area, likely including the area as far north as
Kauffman/Eagle Point Avenue, as far east as the bluff line along the west side of Central Avenue, as
far south as West 1 ih Street, and as far west as Seminary Drive runs.
53
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 71: Project area contour map (two feet contour lines) (City of Dubuque, 2005)
The southwestern portion of the survey area (Figure 71), including Dorgan Place, Ellis and
West Locust, have little in common with the elevated area to the northeast (Clarke, Madison and North
Main) and it is no surprise that the area is excluded from the proposed historic district and comprises a
different range and period of housing.
The bluff steps up on each of its several approaches (Madison and Clarke (formerly Seminary)
Drive and this stepped or terraced topography afforded a great many residents quality vistas as noted.
North Main is a third approach but one must surmount the Madison Park Steps from Madison Street,
north of West 1 ih, to reach this street that terminates just southwest from Madison Park.
The survey area boundaries are depicted on the contour map (see above). A low lying area in
the southwest comer of the project area includes Dorgan Place (north side), a few houses on West
Locust and the east side of Ellis Street. This area is profoundly different in its elevation, and feel and
there are no easy connections with the elevated portions of the project area to the east and north. The
bluff top portions of the survey area include the Madison and Clarke Drive (south side only as far as
North Main) approaches, the aforementioned North Main, between the park and Lowell Street (west
side only north of Clarke Drive), Lowell Street (south side only between North Main and Paul Street
(no houses) and both sides of Clarke Drive between Paul and the aforementioned east portion, located
east of North Main (south side only as far east as Central Avenue).
54
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 72: Detail, 1852 Plat Map
(north is to the left)
A graveyard (Figure 72) occupies much of the future site of Madison Park in this original plat.
The neighborhood straddled the north end of the original city plat. Only Ellis Street was cut through.
Note that the city lots are overlaid on the rugged topography. The public cemetery that became
Jackson Park was closed in the fall of 1853 and was emptied of its graves in 1855. L. H. Langworthy
offered to swap ten acres which adjoined the planned city pest house for the Seminary Hill cemetery
site, as yet unused. The city at first refused but Langworthy accomplished his land scheme by getting
elected to the City Council in 1854. The deed was a done deal by June 1, 1854. This positioned
Langworthy to plat much of the survey area. One land buyer, George W. Wood, erected an Italianate
style brick mansion prominently atop the hill on the east side of North Main Street. This was later the
J. V. Rider house and finally was replaced in 1919 by Madison Park (Interview with Biays Bowerman,
December 14, 2004).
Historical Overview:
Early City Council minutes document street improvements and the establishment of a key new
street, North Madison. The City Engineer was instructed by the Council on September 1, 1856, to
establish a formal grade for Seminary Street. Mathias Ham and a dozen other area residents petitioned
the Council on July 13, 1857 to "cause Seminary Street to be improved so as to put same in a good
condition for travel." H. S. Hetherington, L. H. Langworthy, R. Cox, Dewis Dorgan petioned the same
body to establish a new street beginning at the point where Main struck the bluff at North 1 ih "on or
near the road leading to Hetherington's clay bank," following that route west until it intersects with
Seminary "near the old incorporation line." The petitioners relinquished their right-of-way ownership
55
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
for the requested road. The Council received the request.at-their September 22, 1856 map. It wasn't
until June 16, 1857 that the Council finally asked the City Engineer to prepare a survey and plat for the
new road (the delay was apparently due to the repeal of the instruction to the City Engineer on
November 24, 1856). He reported on June 29, 1857 "the road has been laid on the best ground adapted
for a street and is much wanted as many good improvements have been made on Seminary Hill." The
area was termed the "Upper end of Main Street." Mr. Hetherington urged the Council to proceed with
establishing the street on November 24, 1856, stating "the division of valuable ground into lots was
awaiting the establishment of said street." Curiously Hetherington protested the street route on July
13,1857. The Council ordered a jury to assess damages and the Jury reported back on July 27,1857.
D. Dorgan was awarded $241 in damages, and a benefit of$15. L. H. Langworthy suffered $39 in
damage but gained $53 in benefit. H. S. Hetherington lost $80 and gained $238. R. Cox lost $11.
Finally on October 10, 1854, there was a petition to open a street between North Main and Broadway
Street. A survey was completed and a jury found a total of $362 in damages would result to property
owners. How and why such a road would have been needed is not known. It likely led to the
extension of North Main to Kauffman Street.
The Herald observed in early September 1867 "No portion of the city is improving faster than
Seminary Hill. It is fast settling up with an honest laboring population, who are constantly improving
it. Almost every body on the hill has been making improvements to some extent." The building up of
the north side of Seminary, to the west of North Main, was proceeding in a building frenzy that would
later be typical of tract housing developments. The Herald enumerated five new houses being built
and several others that were being rebuilt. Herman Sauer was lauded for his "nearly new" six-room
brick house on the hill. The house was on the south side of Seminary Street, and five houses west of
Madison Street. It had a greenhouse, 600 bearing grape vines, all kinds of shrubbery. The Herald
added "This place commands a fine view of the river and city and is a very desirable location." Sauer
was a boots and shoes manufacturer (Herald, September 5,1867; May 11, 1870)."
Figure 73: Detail, 1872 Birds Eye View
56
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
The vistas that Seminary Hill availed its residences led to the construction of a number of very
substantial homes beginning in the post-Civil War years. When Herman Sauer offered his "nearly
new" six room brick house for sale in early 1870, the Herald noted "This place commands a fine view
of the river and city and is a very desirable location." Sauer's lot was beautifully landscaped with "all
kinds of shrubbery" and 600 bearing grapevines (Herald, May 11, 1870).
The south face of Seminary Hill was a convenient stone quarry site for some of the city's
earliest buildings. The German Presbyterian "Blue Church" at Locust and West 17th streets, built in
1856, was one nearby landmark that utilized Seminary Hill stone (Herald, September 13, 1896).
This earliest overview of the area attests to the solid up-building of all existing streets.
Madison Street, if fully linked to West 17th, has houses along its west side. Ellis and Dorgan Place are
only partly developed and the image underscores the striking difference in relative elevation between
the upper and lower reaches of the survey area. Seminary (Clarke) is well developed, particularly
along its north side, west of North Main. North Main does not continue north of Seminary and Lowell
Street does not yet exist.
A correlation of the 1873-74 city directory entries for this area identifies 27 residences along
Seminary, Madison and Ellis streets. Sixteen listings along the north side of Seminary include some
located west of the survey area. Many of the furthest out families were Irish and included Dennis
Mahoney. Just six residences were along the south side of Seminary, west of Madison. Four homes
were on the west side of Madison on its south end above West 17th Street. The entries appear to show
that Seminary continued south to West 17th Street given three entries listed on Seminary just above
West 17th.
End of year and other newspaper reports document the construction of 134 houses on Seminary
Hill in the years 1865-1919. Two patterns are clear. First, the majority (71 houses) of these houses
were built prior to 1879. Second, only a small number of these earlier houses have been replaced by
later ones. Sustained new construction (24 houses) took place between 1865-69. A dozen houses date
to 1870-72 but 35 houses date to 1876-1879. Between 1880 and 1894, seven to nine houses were built
in every five-year period. Just three houses date to 1895-1904. Larger-scale construction resumed
abruptly in 1906, with nine houses being built 1905-09, 8 between 1910-14, and 19 between 1915-19.
M. Flick built three of these houses between 1876-82. In the post -1906 building phase, Chris
Voelker and Bradley & Maclay were building multiple residences within the neighborhood.
Seminary Hill was both isolated and convenient to burglars. The former plagued the residents
in late May 1880 when a number of tramps entered homes on a Saturday evening and ate whatever
they could find edible. They apparently did no other damage however (Herald, May 23, 1880).
The German Theological Seminary was by this time a grand success, having prepared 40
ministers for their calling and assisting in the "upbuilding" of70 area churches. As of June 1880 the
school had 30 students hard at their studies. The seminary remained in operation on the southeast
comer of Seminary Hill until 1906. Formally titled "The German Theological Seminary of the
Northwest," the institution relocated to a new and larger site (the Reche property) at Delhi, between
East and Louisa streets. There is formed the nucleus of what is now the University of Dubuque.
Architect John Spencer drew the plans for a new building. The old building had given its hillside
setting its name and housed the first female seminary to be established west of the Mississippi River.
Built using funds provided by Katherine Beecher, sister of Henry Ward Beecher, it was successively
used as a Congregational school for young women, an Episcopal school, public school, and then a
57
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Presbyterian seminary. In 1905 it was described architecturally as a "unique in this vicinity for it is a
first-rate specimen of the early Tudor style and shows how the Gothic still exerted an influence." The
Sisters ofSt. Francis purchased the seminary and the brick residence located just northeast (the
buildings had been historically linked together) in late 1906 for $20,000. They took ownership in June
1907 and remodeled the building for use as a female academy (Herald, June 2, 1880; August 2, 1905;
Telegraph-Herald, October 24, 1906).
Seminary Street was being graded and macadamized as of late 1880. Contractor Mathias
Morgan was doing the work. By early October the macadam work was underway and Morgan
reported the removal of 3,000 cubic yards of barrow in his grading work (Herald, September 20,
October 3, 1880).
~.
- ~,.. fP,. I). !f'OO"....."O"',.'."',,,..:,,...
~ AJ)J)N
/llJ/)"
"Brewer Heeb's new town, back of his brewery, begins to assume shape and command
attention" reported the Herald in mid-1880. "The bluffs are being made into residence property, the
most eligible and commanding in the city, overlooking the town, the river, and the adjoining states of
Illinois and Wisconsin. A barren waste is made a valuable piece of property, sloping gradually
towards the east. The area covers 22 lots of good size. Men and teams are at work leveling up the
property to grade, under the supervision of Peter Specht, the contractor" (Herald, June 4, 1880).
Seminary Hill was considered as the location for an inclined passenger railway when the other
railways at 4th and 11 th streets were being planned. It never gained its own elevator because the
investment wasn't deemed profitable (Herald, February 21, 1888).
Main north of Seminary was similarly graded by Peter Horsch, under a $696 city contract in
early 1896. West 17th Street, between West Locust and Clarke, was macadamized, and given concrete
gutters and curbs in 1915 (Herald, April 10, 1896; Telegraph-Herald, December 26, 1915).
58
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Oscar Genzig achieved his fifteen seconds of fame when he created a sensation on Seminary
Hill." Genzig appeared rational at his sanity hearing and was remanded to complete his sentence "in
the calaboose" (Herald, April 30, 1896).
Figure 75: Detail, Map of Dubuque, 1888 (survey area marked with black lines)
(Map of the City of Dubuque, Iowa, 1888. New York: Leggo Brothers & Company)
Figure 76: 1889 Perspective View of Dubuque, view northwest
59
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 77: Detail, southwest portion of survey area, Ellis and Dorgan Place,
1889 Perspective View of Dubuque, view northwest
Figure 78: Enlarged detail, northeast portion of survey area,
1889 Perspective View of Dubuque, view northwest
Note how there are no houses along the west side of Madison Street, and just three on the east
side below Seminary/Clarke on the plateau. Note also the clustering of Italianate style towers along
Madison and North Main, south of Seminary Street.
Lead mining continued on Seminary Hill as late as the mid-1890s. Lead or "mineral" was
encountered during grading operations and the Seminary Hill Mining Company (1. P. Schroeder, C. A.
60
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Voelker, A. W. Hosford, E. T. Goldthorp) reported the discovery of eight large chunks of mineral, too
heavy for even two strong men to move (Herald, October 10, 1893).
J. P. Schroeder, like Chris Voelker, was much involved in Seminary Hill improvements. He
opened a 32-lot Seminary Hill Addition on April 29, 1890. The lots offered "an elegant view of the
city and river. George D. Wood platted the lots that flanked Lowell (now Leibnitz). Just west of the
survey area, along Seminary, lots were being hammered off along "Merchant's Lane in Porter's
Addition in mid-August 1891 (Herald, April 29, 1890; August 18, 1891).
One long-delayed street improvement was the opening ofHeeb Street in 1904. Now surely the
street had functioned in some informal manner otherwise Seminary/Clarke on its eastern end went no
where and its only means of egress would have been stairs from 18th and Couler/Central. At any rate
the street was to be opened with a 60' width up to its northern end where just 30' was deemed
necessary. The successful petitioners included Henry Schroeder, H. Peiffer and Peter Grutz.
Opponents were Mr. Gatena and Liesecker (Telegraph-Herald, May 17, 1904).
Figure 79: Detail, 1928 Streetcar map
The survey area, given its high elevation, necessarily had no direct access to streetcar lines.
The nearest lines were located at the foot of Clarke Street on Central Avenue. The long dashed lines
which run behind the north side properties along Clarke are ward boundaries. Residents on
Liebnitz/Lowell Street lived in a different ward. Dots identify Telegraph-Herald subscribers and give
a general sense of where houses were then located.
The homestead of Mrs. M. Flick, then addressed as 416 Seminary, probably 506, 486 or 470
Seminary today (just west of the survey area) was auctioned off in early 1903. The nine-room house
occupied four lots and had a four-horse barn and carriage shed at the back of the lot. The residence
had "pantries, closets, 2 cellars, 2 cisterns, and other conveniences." The grounds contained fruit and
shade trees. The Herald noted "The property is in the near neighborhood of the late Maurice Brown's,
P. M. Harrington's and other fine residences, and is one of the most desirable places for a home in the
city (Herald, April 5, 1903)."
61
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Madison Park:
Merchant George D. Wood built a prominent Italian Villa style brick house on the brow of
Seminary Hill. Wood was a large man and tired of the uphill trek home. He sold the house to J. V.
Rider. Rider enlarged the house during his lengthy occupancy. The mansion long dominated the south
end of North Main, below Seminary/Clarke Street. Set atop a steep sheer wall of stone (the result of
quarrying), his house occupied what was termed by some residents "one of the most beautiful in the
city." Rider retired to California and gave his house to the city for use as a public park in August
1914. Rider also specified the name for the park although it was at least briefly termed "Hill Crest
Park." His specific desire was that children could enjoy his spectacular vista. It was also his hope that
the house itself could be incorporated into the park facilities. This was not deemed feasible and in
mid-1918 and Rider agreed with the Park Board that the house had to be removed. Demolition took
place in January 1919. An open pavilion was built and the grounds landscaped. A concrete stairway
leading up to the park from West 1 ih Street was built in 1918. Seminary Hill residents raised funds to
erect a 60' flagpole (reflective of post-war patriotism). The Herald noted "The flag hanging from this
pole can be seen from the greater part of the city." Formal dedication of the park took place on June
26, 1919 although the park first opened in mid-August 1915. The requisite speeches, a two-hour band
concert by John Jenny's Municipal Band, and the raising of the flag for the first time, all filled the
evening program. The Park Board hoped that all the city residents would use the park and the board
was particularly proud of the artistic stairway. The stucco and tile pavilion was considered a model for
use in any additional small parks that the city might create (Telegraph-Herald, August 25, 30,
September 23, October 29, 1914; August 19, September 17, 1915; January 9, June 24, 27, 1919;
September 23, 1934, August 4, 1937).
Figure 80: Madison Park, view southeast, park pavilion and young tree growth, c.1919
(Center for Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo #8107)
62
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 81: Dedication of Madison Park (?) 1919, view southwest
(Center for Dubuque History, Loras College)
Figure 82: Head of Madison Park Steps, view southeast, c.1919
(Center for Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo #FBL 4725)
63
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 83: Madison Park, view north
(Telegraph-Herald, July 21, 1937)
Figure 84: Sam Root photograph of Seminary Hill, c.1870, view northeast
(Center for Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo FMP#3864)
(note the wooden steps leading up the stone bluff)
Seminary Hill in Figure 84, unlike other bluff fronts, has not been clear-cut of its native timber
and clearly someone had interceded to protect the trees.
64
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 85: North Main steps at West 1 i and Main streets, view north, c.1872
(Center for Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo #HAM 840)
The house at the far left might be the earlier version of 1910 North Madison.
This earliest view of the steps (Figure 85) necessarily pre-dates the establishment of Madison
Park and the wooden steps, located behind and to the east of photographer Sam Root's house, were
used to reach the base of North Main Street. The John V. Rider Italianate style house is prominently
visible to right of center atop Seminary Hill.
Figure 86: Seminary Hill from below, view north, 1897, Wood-Rider residence left of center, 1833
North Main is at the upper left, and the house at upper right is 60 Clarke Street
(Souvenir Gems of Dubuque)
65
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 87: North Main Street Steps, c.1906, view northeast,
Madison Street to the left, 1833 North Main at far left
(Center for Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo #FBL 4725)
The house at the far right, above the stone wall was termed the "Eagle's Nest" and was occupied by the
Cushing family as of 1904 (Telegraph-Herald, June 14, 1904).
Figure 88: Early view up Madison, wooden steps, 1833 North Main visible left of center
(Dubuque County Historical Society)
66
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 89: Early wooden steps, Wood-Ryder House, view northeast across Madison from West 1 ih
(Dubuque County Historical Society)
What is striking in comparing the earlier view of the base of Seminary Hill with this one, is the
degree to which the stone bluff front has been cut back to a nearly vertical profile. A house site has
been created to the right of the steps and a massive stone retaining wall built. The steps remain simple
and of frame construction.
Figure 90: Overview of Madison Street Hill, view northeast, c.1915
(Center for Dubuque History, Loras College)
67
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
From right to left in Figure 90 the following.houses"are visible:, 1833 North Main, 1765, 1805
(with an additional floor), 1829, 1849 and 1910 Madison (the last named in its original Italianate form
with cupola). Atop Seminary Hill, are to the left 0 f 183 3 North Main, are 1846, 1857, 1860, 1871,
1881, 1886 North Main, and 216 Clarke with its carriage house. Visible in the left foreground are 271-
73, and perhaps 303 Dorgan Place (right to left).
Figure 91: Foot of North Madison, view northwest, c.1915,
1833 North Main visible right of upper center
(Center for Dubuque History, Loras College)
Elaborate concrete and stone stairs with omamentallight posts and metal railings represent the
new stairs built by the Park Board in 1918 to reach the newly established park. The vantage point of
the lamp post image taken at the head of the stairs (see above) is visible at the upper left. These stairs
were one of a number of similar municipal improvements built at this time.
Figure 92: Madison Park Steps, view east, c.1918
(Center for Dubuque History, Loras College)
68
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 93: Madison Park Steps, view north, c.1920
(Center for Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo #FBL 4724)
Figure 94: Madison Street, location not identified,
view south across east end of Seminary/Clarke Street?
(Dubuque County Historical Society)
69
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 95: Seminary Street, view to the southeast from a point to the east of North Main
St. Mary Catholic Church visible in the background
(Center For Dubuque History, Loras College, Telegraph-Herald, January 26, 1993)
Figure 96: New Chris Voelker-built cottage, Leibnitz/Lowell Street, 1906 (west of the survey area)
(Telegraph-Herald, October 2, 1906)
House builder Chris Voelker was just entering into his higher volume house building career as
of 1906 when he offered several new cottages on Seminary Hill. At that time he rated that location
"the best hill in town." His design was geared to efficiency. Voelker noted "I am especially proud of
their interior arrangement. They are planned for comfort, and are so compact that none could plan
them better; they require the least possible amount of coal or wood for heating. There is no wasted
space in them." In July 1906 Voelker was offering five properties in the area for sale. One was a six-
room house on Seminary Street. It was located on a double lot along with a barn and other
outbuildings. He had two "pretty frame cottages" on Leibnitz, surely those he had built, these enjoyed
an "elegant view" and were just a 15-minute walk [rom City Hall. Another Seminary street house was
70
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
"right on the main street," contained six rooms and was located "near the front of the hill." Finally a
"Seminary Hill" neat four room cottage occupied a full lot and was not "far out." By 1919 the
company was making a more targeted impact in certain parts of the city. The Herald noted: "The
Voelker Realty company has become known as a developer of neighborhoods. .. (Telegraph-Herald,
October 7, 1906; June 27, 1919)."
Figure 97: Another Chris Voelker Realty House, Seminary Street, 1914 (west of survey area)
(Telegraph-Herald, August 30, 1914)
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~O
Figure 98: Seminary Street view northwest, c.1915 (west of the survey area)
(Center for Dubuque History, Loras College)
71
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 99: Dr. Ernest Porter's Queen Anne house design, north side of Clarke at Foye, view northeast
(west of the survey area)
(Dubuque County Historical Society)
Figure 100: 597 Seminary, Emil M. ErnsdorffResidence, view northwest, 1897
(west of the survey area) (Dubuque of Todav, p. 82)
Even from the Ernsdorff house, well west of the bluff front proper, the view was impressive.
Dubuque Of Today (1897) proclaimed
Of the many beautiful and picturesque residence sections in the neighborhood of the
Key City, Seminary Hill may easily claim precedence s the most attractive. Emil
Ernsdorff s fine residence is located on this hill and from the windows one can look out
upon the broad Mississippi, and far across upon the fertile plains of Illinois and
Wisconsin. Away to the east Sinsanawa Mound is silhouetted against the blue
Wisconsin sky and directly south, rising abruptly from the banks of the Father of
Waters, are Iowa's rugged and picturesque bluffs and woods. An ideal place for a home
you will say. Indeed it is, and Mr. Ernsdorff is to be envied. Seminary Hill is
recognized as the section where some of the best people of the city, the leading business
and professional men, make their homes, and from there they can look down upon the
entire city.
72
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Individual House Photographs:
Figure 101: A. R. Staufenbeil residence, 1921 Madison Street, view northwest, 1897.
The original design of 1941 Madison is visible at the far right.
(Souvenir Gems of Dubuque)
Figure 102: Wood-Rider House, 1772 North Main, view southeast, stereograph by Sam Root, c.1870
Non-extant, present site of Madison Park
(Dubuque County Historical Society)
73
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
..-"..~,~~...~~~!, ~
Figure 103: 216 Clarke Street, c.1911, view west
(Center for Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo #357)
This photo depicts the first post-Italianate style makeover, as a Spanish Mission/Craftsman
design. A two-story south solarium was added and the Italianate style elongated windows were
broadened into casement windows and were given gable roof hoods. An open raised patio with
stuccoed balustrade wrapped around the south and east sides. The second makeover added a single-
story flat roof porch on the south side, removed the porch and terrace, enclosed the solarium, and
added a matching north wing.
Figure 104: 430 Clarke Drive, view southwest (non-extant)
(Dubuque County Historical Society)
74
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
A Judge Nelson owned the brick Italianate house at 430 Clarke, located just west of the survey
area on the south side of Clarke Drive. A disgruntled victim of his sentencing hired a person to bum
the house down during the late 1970s and today a new apartment block occupies the site (Interview,
Linda Mathewson, June 8, 2005).
~..;,-....~--~'"
Part III: Broadway Neighborhood Historic Survey Report:
Findings:
The Broadway survey area is primarily a single elongated street. Alterations and new
construction necessarily have a greater impact along such a street, "knocking out teeth" so to speak and
eliminating or weakening any possibility for finding a visually cohesive historic district. The other
streets included in the survey have little direct relationship to Broadway apart from West 24th and
Diagonal, which serve as connectors to Central Avenue to the West. Traut Terrace is related because
its houses front east atop a ridge that separates Central from Broadway. These houses necessarily back
up to Broadway, interrupting the patterning of its houses.
Housing Built 1850-1899
12
10
8
6
4 -
2
o
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Figure 1 05:
Broadway developed later than either Fenelon or North Main as Figure 105 depicts. There are
a number of very early residences (one that claims an 1848 building date, now completely altered) is
included in the 1850-54 count). Clearly, development was delayed until the later 1880s at which time
sustained house building continued through the 1890s and then was renewed at a lower but
considerab Ie level until 1915.
75
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Housing Built 1900-1954
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
o
J ~ ~ ~ n~ ~ ~ # J ~ ~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~v ~v ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ 0/ 0/ 0/ ~ ~ ~
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Figure 106:
Nothing was built until the early 1920s at which time a number of bungalows and Craftsman
cottages were built and earlier houses modified. This building effort ended with the late 1920s and
nothing was built until after World War II. A dozen houses post-date World War II and eight of these
post-date 1955.
Just 21 houses can be categorized as representing 19th Century styles. There are nine Italianate
(all but two on Broadway), two Second Empire, four Queen Anne, and six Classical Revival (four on
Broadway) examples. As was the case in North Main, vernacular examples (31 gable fronts, five side
gables, one hip roof cottage) visually dominate the survey area. Later infill examples comprise five
bungalows, seven minimal traditional, one Colonial Revival cottage, two duplexes (both altered earlier
buildings), and two apartment blocks. This mix reflects the later development and the continued later
infilling of the area.
There are just four pre-Civil War surviving houses, two of which are located on the south end
of Broadway. The 1848 house at 121 West 23rd was built as a Greek Revival house but it is absolutely
unrecognizable today. The Judge King house, 2535 Traut Terrace, is the final early example. Earlier
houses (pre-1890) front west along the north part of Broadway, while the houses on the east side of the
south end date mostly to the late 1880s and early 1890s. The north end of Broadway infilled after
1905. West 23rd Street (formerly Hart) infilled east to west between 1885 and 1897. West 24th Street
(formerly Blocklinger Lane) was largely built up only during the 1890s as land was finally subdivided
along its south side.
76
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Evaluation:
Figure 107: Houses recommended as being individually NRHP eligible.
No potential historic district was identified in the survey area but eight houses were
recommended as being potentially National Register of Historic Places eligible. These are:
2404 Broadway (1857/1879 wing): The King-Bruening House
2417 Broadway (pre-1889) Gottfried Blocklinger House
2440 Broadway (1870) Peter Kiehne Jr. House
2441 Broadway (1854) Emil W. Kiehne House
2500 Broadway (1894) Christian K. Mathis House
2518 Broadway (1850)
2535 Traut Terrace (1850) Judge John King House
196 West 24th Street (1880) William and Anna ZumhoffHouse
Descriptive Overview:
This northernmost neighborhood occupies its own private valley, being largely hidden from
view by a low ridge that parallels Central Avenue (formerly Couler) to the west. This small valley or
drainage is oriented northwest to the southeast. Broadway Street, running along the center of that
drainage, along that same direction, is the principal street within the survey area. West 24th Street
(formerly Blocklinger's Lane), a very narrow street, links Broadway on its southern end to Central
Avenue, while Diagonal, also steeply pitched and angled, does the same on its north end. Division
Street is a short dead-end lane that runs north of West 24th, between Broadway and Central. Carr
Street, is a southward continuation of Division, but it jogs well west of the terminus of that street. Also
included in the survey area is West 23rd Street to the south of Broadway, but it connects Central
Avenue on the west and Valeria Street to the east. King Street, which ascends very steeply up the bluff
77
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
to the west of the terminus of Broadway, connects with Greeley Street and the area south of King is
included in the survey area.
Figure 108: Survey area contour map (City of Dubuque, 2004)
(contours mark two feet elevation changes)
Figure 109: View south along Broadway, 2441 Broadway is at the right,
196 West 24th Street at the end of the street (photo by J. Jacobsen, April 2005)
78
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:,~'; '.:" ':<~o, "', .'.', ~"'.~, '."'
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
'--' '-.-.... f. .~ ,\ ;'~:~'
The northern reaches of the survey area are closely associated with the larger and contiguous
Park Hill area. The rectangular Park Hill Plat was filed August 6, 1856 by John M. McDaneld and
comprised Mineral Lot 353. The north/south streets bore the names ofIowa's river cities (even
Davenport!). Park Hill Avenue (now West 28th Street) provided access to the plat from Central
Avenue. A South Park Hill plat later connected the first plat with the survey area to the south. Two
notable dairy farms were located within the Park Hill area (Sam and Ellen Young's Dairy Farm,
Primrose & Kane streets, just the house survives at that comer, and Frank Fink Dairy Farm, at the end
of Kane Street. For many years busses with routes terminating there were labeled "Park Hil1." One
measure of the area's development was the paving of Fulton Street, between Monroe and King streets,
in 1913 with McAdam at a cost of$2,591 ("Memories of Park Hill," typed manuscript, Vern A.
Mauer, n.d.; Telegraph-Herald, December 28, 1913).
Development Notes:
John King purchased 30 acres from L.H. Langworthy on August 6, 1836. CouIer/Central was
then termed the Peru Road. One landmark locating the King property was Morrison's Furnace (lead
smelter). King built an Italianate style brick house on the low ridge to the west ofthe road (Abstract,
180 West 24th Street). King divided his land into large lots in September 1853 and as King's Plat on
January 16, 1873.
The Broadway neighborhood appears to have developed first along the bluff which ran to the
west of Couler, south of its intersection with Diagonal Street. At least two major houses were erected
along this bluff top, both of which fronted eastward towards Couler. Surveyor Charles Gottschalk and
Justice ofthe Peace Fred Gottschalk were living here, in King's Addition, along with Judge King by
1857. Their brick house might be that which was enumerated as "Gotchel's[new] brick" in the Herald
on March 8, 1857. That same source also listed Judge John King's brick residence, located at the
comer of Diagonal and Couler.
Early City Council actions focused on opening or improving streets within the survey area.
Platt Smith and others petitioned on May 28, 1853, that Park Hill Avenue and McCabe Street would be
accepted and declared to be public highways. A petition was considered on April 28, 1856 to assess
damages to Charles Street owners caused by the opening of King Street. The King Street damages
were reported on December 1, 1856 that C. H. Street alone had benefited from it and was to pay the
$500 in assessed damages. Damages resulting from the opening of an alley, between Blocklinger
Alley (later called Carr) and the Plank Road (Couler Avenue) were first considered on September 18,
1854, when losses of $25 were reported by a jury. This presumably was the beginning of what is now
West 24th Street, known during the 1890s as Blocklinger Lane. A proposal to open a street north from
North Main to Broadway, linking the additions of Langworthy's (Seminary-Madison Hill) and Judge
King (the Broadway area) was under consideration as of early 1855. The exact route is undetermined.
North Main was not a north/south through street and was not going to be. The early presence of a
brewery just south of Broadway's southern terminus, made a connecting street equally unlikely. It
may well be that the intended connection was north to Kau:finann. At any rate on January 2, 1855, the
City Engineer presented a survey and plat for a proposal to widen the alley between the Plank Road
and Broadway, this being the same alley link, with George Ragatz owning 12 percent of the land in
question. On January 22, there was a motion to pay Ragatz $200 "instead of$362 appropriated for the
payment of the damages caused by the opening of North Main Street." That proposal failed. The alley
widening returned to the agenda on March 3, 1856 when the City Engineer proposed to take 10' off of
the south side of the alley, between King's and Langworthy's additions. A jury reported May 26,
1856, that the following damages would have resulted from widening/opening the alley: Lot 11,
Wullweber's Sub. Of Lots 2-4 of Kings Addition (east of present-day Division), was harmed $75, Lot
79
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. " <""';\:~"'*>.>~.".~ ",,':'
.
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
5 (same addition) harmed by $25, Lot 4 (same addition~e loss, George Zumhoff's Lot of
Langworthy's Addition, the same loss, Henry Blocklinger's Lot (same addition), had benefited by $40,
Peter Kiene's Lot (same addition), had benefited by $10. Joseph Gehrig's Lot (same addition) had
benefited by $4, Lot 6-8-0, also owned by Gehrig, gained by $9, Lot 12-6-7, Wullweber's Sub. Of Lots
2 & 4, had benefited by $5, and Lots 8-9-10, same addition, by $3. On September 15, 1856, the
Council approved the jury's awards and ordered their payment. Judge King complained on September
22, 1856, that damages had been apportioned to properties unconnected to the alleyway and claimed a
conflict on the part of one juror. It then reconsidered and ordered a new jury and the new findings
were presented on November 18, 1856. It found that George Zumhoff, Mr. Bevier (Lot 4) and C. H.
Wullweber (Lot 5) all suffered no lost, while J. Jaern, Lot 11, suffered a $200 loss. Costs were
assessed to Judge King, owner of Lots 3-20. G. Blocklinger and six others petitioned the Council in
support of the jury's work but Judge King protested as the Council took up the matter again on
December 15, 1856. The verdict was reaffirmed on June 1, 1857 and the City Marshall reported a
week later that Judge King refused to pay, threatened to incur $1,000 legal costs to fight the award, and
the other parties refused to pay if King refused. The City Engineer presented final profiles for Couler
Avenue, between 19th and 23rd streets, Diagonal between Couler and Broadway, the alley south of
King's Addition, and Broadway, King's Addition, between the alley and Diagonal.
Mr. R. Sibbach had petitioned for the improvement of Diagonal Street, between Couler and
Broadway, and on August 7, 1855 the Council ordered the work done, the work cost little "and
inasmuch as there are many improvements being made upon Broadway, and no other outlet but by
Diagonal Street to the plank road." On March 3, 1856, the City Engineer was ordered to make a
survey and plat, showing owners' names. He submitted the report on April 8 and a jury was named to
assess damages. The jury verdict "for opening the street" on "Cooley" Avenue in King's Addition,
was reported on April 21, 1856. E. Langworthy, Lot 232, was damaged to the amount of $600, while
those properties to the west and south of his land had benefited. Judge King asked the Council on June
13, 1856, to extend Diagonal beyond Broadway to Park Hill and offered to give land for the right-of-
way (he did the same for an extension of Charles Street). R. V. Walmslyand seven others asked for an
appropriation of $250 on October 16, 1856 to make the improvement. The Council tabled the request
pending receipt of the South Park Plat
The large lots in the north end of Broadway (Lots 23, 25, 27, 31, 32 became 20 smaller parcels)
were re-platted December 10, 1881. On the south end of the King plat, the Brewery Addition, filed on
January 15, 1876 by Peter Kiehe, Geo. and Maria Zumhoff, Dominic Rhomberg. Judge King's
daughter Jennie E. King married E. B. Farley. Additional plats, King's #3, was filed on March 3,
1892, and the Subdivision ofE. B. Farley's Subdivision was filed on November 4 1890 (Property
abstracts, 2441, 2609 Broadway).
Newspaper end of year and other reports identify 61 new house starts within the neighborhood.
All but four of these predate the year 1888. The list is necessarily incomplete and there are no reports
for some years. Post -1900 buildings are particularly underrepresented due to the lack of annual
reports. Unlike the other survey areas, these building starts describe a fairly sustained level of
construction between 1871 and 1888. In fact there are but a few more intense years or periods, with
seven house starts in 1871, six in 1882, and 13 houses in 1886.
Plans to improve Heeb Alley, the northward continuation ofHeeb Street beyond Seminary to
Kaufinann, were derailed in early 1903. Opening the alley entailed cutting the grade by 20 feet.
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
'~.
Gas mains were laid along Seminary Street in September 1906 (Herald, September 18, 1906).
'.'f .:d' ~~' \ c
~, C'Ir.1;'4
If r:l.~, (. {/.
)W",. " J
Figure 110: Plat Map of Survey Area
The 1872 overview depicts an already well built-up neighborhood with at least a dozen houses
being in place along Broadway proper. Glab's Brewery anchors the south end of the area. Vineyards
occupy the bluff front at the north end of Broadway. A tabulation of new house starts begins in 1868.
Between 1870 and 1874, 13 houses are known to have been built. During the next five years, 9 more
were built. Between 1880 and 1884 19 houses were built. Between 1885 and 1889 17 more were
built. Just one house was added between 1890 and 1894, and none the next five years. The final new
81
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
house buildings dated to 1904, 1909 and 1914. While incomplete, these figures indicate that the
neighborhood was largely infilled during the years 1870-1889. A number of post World War I infills
are also to be found.
A Good Residence For Sale: A dwelling house with 8 rooms, 2 cisterns, 1 stable, a good
many cherry trees and 1 Y2 acres of ground, is situated above the street railroad depot,
on Broadway, in King's Addition. For particulars call on George Zumhoff.
Daily Herald, June 14, 1872
One new street initiative on the part of the city during 1872 was the laying out ofa
circuitous connector between the (then) end of Seminary Street and Mineral Street. The route
ran through the Littleton and Sawyers additions and was apparently present-day Rosedale and
the northward continuation of Grandview Avenue, the latter street was just being laid out.
Clarke ended at its western merge point with Asbury Road. This new connector would have
made it easier to travel on Seminary from the west. The Herald lauded this and other road
improvements, noting "these improvements are important, and it will be no small benefit if they
are made without delay (Daily Herald, May 22, 1872)."
City directory listings for 1873-74 offer only a dozen listings and all references are made with
reference to Broadway listings to the north of 25th Street, all in King's Addition. Just eight addresses,
comprising four homes on either side of Broadway, are listed. The 25th Street reference is apparently
to 24th Street. The houses cover the full range of Broadway, with the southernmost reference being
2404 Broadway. John King's house is the last one referenced on the east side of Broadway, being four
houses north of 25th. On the west side, the only identified address is 2441 Broadway, then occupied by
Richard, Peter and Barthol Kiene. Houses to the north occupied by Paul Kiene, Printer Paul Zalantini,
and carpenter Jacob Rheinfrank, do not appear to survive.
And now a wail comes down from Broadway about the depredations committed by
cows running at large, breaking into gardens and destroying flower beds. If there is no
law against their running at large, then all right; if there is, then all wrong. Cows should
be shut up at night, and driven off to the fields in the morning. Then the nuisance
would be abated. The people up that way want the law enforced, or be allowed to keep
watch dogs exempt from license to guard their property
Herald, August 5, 1880
One neighborhood issue of mid-1880 was a slaughterhouse located on 23rd Street. The City
Council had ordered it removed a year previous but the Herald reported it back in operation. A
particular concern was its proximity to the Couler Avenue schoolhouse (Fulton School, presumably)
(Herald, May 23, 1880).
The area along Broadway, in the vicinity of Diagonal, was being built-up by this time. The
Herald noted "Quite a number of houses have been built this summer on the hills in the rear of John
Mehlhop's residence on Broadway." John Mehlhop Sr., an early tobacco and grocery merchant,
occupied Judge King's mansion on Traut Terrace. (Herald, September 29, 1880).
82
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
97
Figure 112: Detail, c.1880s view north from Seminary Hill, across Kaufman Avenue
(Center for Dubuque History, Loras College)
At background left and marked, are 91 and 97 West 23rd Street (formerly Hart Street). Glab's
Brewery is visible to the left of those houses.
Figure 113: Detail, Map of Dubuque, 1888 (survey area marked with black lines)
(Map of the City of Dubuque, Iowa, 1888. New York: Leggo Brothers & Company)
83
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 114: Detail, 1889 Perspective Map of the City of Dubuque, south end of the survey area
This detail shows West 23rd (formerly Hart) Street and the Glab Brewery complex. Valeria
Street runs northwest at the far left, Central (formerly Couler) runs north at the lower right.
Figure 115: Detail, 1889 Perspective Map of the City of Dubuque, north end of the survey area
This detail encompasses the remainder of the project area as it appeared in 1889. Diagonal
Street marks the north boundary of the project area. This depiction understates the elevation of the
ridge that runs between Broadway and Central. The houses on Broadway are not visible from the latter
street, and vice versa. Absent from this image is Fulton School, to be located on the greenhouse site at
Diagonal and Central at the far right. The houses shown along the east of side of Broadway at its
northern end are actually well advanced to the east of Broadway and originally fronted onto
Couler/Central.
84
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
In mid-1891 Broadway residents were being treated to nightly dog howling concerts and the
Herald observed that there was "no sleeping in Broadway (Herald, July 19, 1891)."
Figure 116: Detail, 1928 Streetcar Map
Streetcar lines utilized Couler/Central and Jackson. Greeley, running south from King in the
northwest comer of the project area, was then called Fulton Street. Eagle Point Avenue was first
called Kauffman Avenue. The black dots represent subscribers of the Telegraph-Herald. Given that
newspapers local dominance, the dots are a good representation of where houses stood.
Broadway was finally paved during the mid-1920s.
Individual House Photographs:
Figure 117: Residence of J. F. Heer/Judge King,
2535 Traut Terrace, overlooking Couler Avenue, 1897
(Souvenir Gems of Dubuque)
85
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
The King House is the oldest residence along Broadway and its orientation the east attests to
the fact that when Judge King built it, there was no Broadway Street. King placed his house on a ridge
that ran between Central/Couler and what would become Broadway, with an east-facing orientation.
The Herald reported in 1934:
When Judge King built his "mansion" there was no other house on the elevation west
of Central avenue and south from Diagonal street to Twenty-fifth street. The terraces
which now stretch before it, and the three other houses now standing on Traut Terrace,
had not been made, and the house stood at the top of a gradual incline that extended all
the way down to the level of Central avenue, then known as the Plank Road.
Included in the homestead was all of the property between Central avenue and
Broadway and from Diagonal street to Twenty- fifth street. On the slopes at every side
of the house.. .were vineyards and orchards. To protect the products of his vines and
trees from possible marauders, Judge King had caused a five-foot wall of stone to be
built about the entire property. The wall completely enclosed the property, extending
all the way down Central avenue, on Twenth- fifth and Diagonal streets and all the way
along Broadway between these two streets. . .
In the course of years after the death of Judge King [1871] the property which he had
beautified by the planting of vineyards, fruit trees and berry bushes and flowers of many
varieties has undergone many changes. The property has been made into a sub-
division, new streets were laid out through it, new homes were built on its slopes, the
new Fulton school annex and its playgrounds found a location at the foot of the slope in
front of the old residence, and the gradual sloping knoll was transformed into terraces
(Telegraph-Herald, April 29, 1934).
Figure 118: King House, 2535 Traut Terrace
(Telegraph-Herald, November 16, 1941)
86
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 119: Interior view, 2535 Traut Terrace
(Telegraph-Herald, November 16, 1941)
Figure 120: Residence ofF. W. Altman, 2452 (100) Broadway, 1897
(Souvenir Gems of Dubuque)
Figure 121: Residence of Joseph Zimmerman, 2506 (130) Broadway, 1897
(Souvenir Gems of Dubuque)
87
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
This Classical Revival design has been obliterated in an apartment house makeover. The whole
footprint was squared off and given a flat roof. A few surviving basement windows and exposed stone
foundation are the only clues to the original appearance, shown above.
Figure 122: Blocklinger Residence, 2417 Broadway (Souvenir Gems of Dubuque), 1897
Figure 123: 2500 (then 118) North Main, Residence of Christian K. Mathis, view northeast
(Dubuque, The Key City, 1897, p. 84)
88
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 124: 2518 Broadway, the residence ofCol. J. W. C. Saunders
(Souvenir Gems of Dubuque, 1897)
Fulton School:
Figure 125: Fulton School, 1907, view to the southwest
(Center For Dubuque History, Loras College)
89
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
The Couler Avenue School was built in 1875 and was renamed Fulton School in 1890. An
addition was built in 1891. Architects F. Heer and Son designed a boiler house for Fulton School in
1901 and bids were called for in late July. The first school was replaced by the present Fulton School,
located immediately east across Couler/Central Avenue (2540 Central) in 1939 (Herald, June 9, July
16,1891; July 27, 1901).
D. Meggenburg operated a brickyard on the Broadway Extension for several years prior to his
death in 1903. Sons Gus and Dick reorganized the business as Meggenburg Brothers and continued
operations (Telegraph-Herald, April 10, 1903).
Couler Avenue Breweries:
Four breweries were located along Couler Avenue. The Dubuque Brewery, operated by
Antoine Heeb, was located on the southwest comer of Eagle Point/West 22nd and Couler prior to 1857
at which time it was being expanded. Titus Schmidt first established the facility. As of 1873 this was
the second largest of six breweries in terms of the value of its product (4,387 barrels worth $42,000).
Figure 126: Titus Schmidt Brewery, Eagle Point Road and Couler Avenue
(Center for Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo KRE12)
Figure 127: Glab Brothers Brewery, Couler and 27t Street, view west, 1888
(Center for Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo NGL 2001)
90
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
By 1909 the facility was operated as the Iowa Dairy~ C~Rlpan)k."....,....,. - ,"
The Iowa Brewery, located just south of the present-day West 24th Street was the second
brewery complex proceeding north along Couler. Established as the Western Brewery Mathias
Tschirgi and Jacob Schwind in 1854, it was titled Tschirgi & Schwing as of 1873, at which time the
value of its output was nearly double that of the other five city breweries (3,200 barrels valued at
$82,000). By 1884 it was called the Iowa Brewery. Titus Schmidt (see image below) opened his own
brewery on Couler in 1855 and was the first brewer to bottle beer for home use. His firm became the
Iowa Brewery by 1884, and operated under that same name as of 1891. By 1909 the sprawling facility
contained both the Dubuque Weiss Beer Company and Demkier Brothers broom factory. By 1936 a
much-reduced range of buildings housed the Artesian Bottling Works. The buildings were gone prior
to 1964 save for the surviving beer hall was built in 1857, at which time the brewery was described as
being located on "the upper end ofCouler." No overall image has been found for this brewery
(Herald, March 8, 1857).
Figure 128: Iowa Brewery Hall, Couler, south of24t , view northwest
(Center for Dubuque History, Loras College)
Co. 1 f
C/lPCY IOO 11I1t.r hJf .P#y. g:.
Ht<ilfl' I(I//(;Hif.IW-I.,'.tJCux;/( - )/~r.rn!'l(""
I'Ve!<:- C<.rfl. I. Hoop. - LJaNd' lAN1 t>-l L~'l'.i'O"tr,
kA/'f/i ,.:~,.,p ,.y.S'~.iW' ...j,i+tur .
!YAfl:'1f f)!i'(I(S .( M:lse "ni> iP'..
fU,I'()jlll1'f!b/~ 11.t.JU'f IN 1(/<1'1 M/,
0 4-
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Figure 129: Detail, 1891 Sanborn Fire Insurance Map
The house (numbered 121) apparently survives much altered as does the Beer Hall, far right.
91
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 130: John Schaffner Residence, Tivoli or Centennial Gardens, view northwest
(Telegraph-Herald, May 27, 1934)
John Schaffner established the Tivoli Gardens in conjunction with the Tschirgi & Schmid
Brewery, in the early or mid-1850s. Richard Cox operated the gardens 1860-63, followed by Joseph
Zugenbuehler (1863-76) and finally John Krayer (1876-closure). Schaffner's Greek Revival style
cottage survived into the 1930s and might form the core of 121 West 23rd today. The gardens were
reduced in size as housing was built to the south along Hart/West 23rd Street and this cottage was
obscured by a large double-decked billboard. When those were removed the house was confused with
that of Lucius Hart Langworthy, who had built a house in the early 1830s in an oak grove beyond
Frances Street, to the south of West 23rd Street.
The third brewery, established by Adam Glab (1828-1880), was as noted located at present-day
30th Street. Glab came to Dubuque in 1852 and founded the Northern Brewing Company in 1866,
expending $50,000. His sons Nicholas, Alois and Frank, all worked with their father. This sprawling
brewery complex is depicted on the 1884, 1891 and 1909 Sanborn Fire Insurance Maps. Four local
breweries were consolidated as the Dubuque Brewing and Malting Company in 1892 (Dubuque
Encyclopedia, pp. 47-48, 178, 196).
92
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 131: Glab Brewery workers, note the shields, barrels, glasses of beer and two dogs
Nicholas Glab (far left, front), Frank Glab (center with hat?) and Anton Glab (far right, front)
(Center for Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo GRE 7772)
Figure 132: Said to picture Glab's Brewery, c.1880-90
(Center for Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo GRE7771)
There is no ready fit between this image and the fire insurance maps although the bluffs are visible in
the background.
93
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
The fourth brewery was the Dubuque Malting and Brewing Company, that was built in the
1890s to the east of Couler Avenue near 32nd Street.
/'- f
Figure 133: Dubuque Malting and Brewing Company
Union Electric Street Car Company:
This very large complex was substantially expanded to the south post-1909. The original stone
power plant and blacksmith shop survives in the northwest comer of the complex. This complex was a
focal point of the 1903 streetcar strike and National Guard call-up.
Figure 134: Union Electric Street Car Company Car Barn, view northwest, c.1915
(Center for Dubuque History, Loras College)
94
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
VY
() r; ~
I,
.f.r.....T?t...V~2. It
~........_ ~ !,I, }l" ",',i,",:~,.L:.~"'",,',,.'1 IV:,
· 2..1 -;r.T., +
; -"I-J~'" II"
:", _L~v' ~':
~
Figure 135: Detail, 1924/36 Sanborn Fire Insurance Map
Interstate Power Company Bus Garage, West 24th and Couler and Remnant of the Iowa Brewery
John L. Heims Brickvard. 3200 Central Avenue:
John Heims and his mother converted their late father's pottery works (established 1867) into a
brickyard in 1880. The firm employed 60-75 hands and produced bricks for all of the key area
landmarks, including Washington Junior High School, Sacred Heart Church and the Holy Ghost
Church. It slowed in production during the 1920s and finally failed during the Great Depression. As
of 1909 John Heim also operated a hotel at the comer ofCouler and West 32nd. Another source
however locates the yard at This facility was located near 2704 Ventura Drive, that site is now
occupied by an apartment complex. (Dubuque Encvclopedia, p. 196).
Figure 136: Detail, 1909 Sanborn Fire Insurance Map
North is to the left, with West 32nd Street to the right, Couler Avenue is to the east (top of image).
95
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 137: Heim's brickyard, West 32n Street, view east
Dubuque Malting Company visible in background
(Center for Dubuque History, Loras College, Photo #3596)
Figure 138: Anton Heeb's brickyard, Couler Avenue, said to be at 32n
so is likely Heim' s yard, undated, likely c.1900
(Center for Dubuque History, Loras College)
James Cushing's Vinegar Works:
Yet another important and long-enduring industrial operation that was near the Broadway
survey area was the Cushing vinegar works. The facility is pictured on the 1884, 1891 and 1909
Sanborn Fire Insurance Maps. This plant was located at the west end of West 23rd Street and Valeria
Street. It is probable that its employees found homes along West 23rd Street.
96
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Figure 140: Detail, 1891 (left) and 1909 (right) Sanborn Fire Insurance Maps
James Cushing & Son Vinegar Works
97
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
..~
..~,.:,~' ,.,~~~"(~;....~~:..~:;~~ ~
Project Methodology:
The project methodology employed was based upon experience gained in earlier Dubuque
survey phases. House-specific data was collected at the same time that general survey area historical
and visual data was gathered.
The spreadsheet approach to house documentation was once again employed. It had proved
itself very useful during the Phase III and Phase IV survey projects. The approach consists of a
complete listing of all properties, arranged in street and house number order. Separate columns are
used to gather descriptive and historical material. The descriptive section was subdivided into the
following sections. First a building date was entered, based upon the City Assessor's estimated year of
construction. Next a stylistic section identified the type or style of the residence and listed character-
defining elements. A descriptive section summarized the overall plan, dimensions, and other details.
An alterations section summarized visible changes and post-1917 building permits.
The historical section listed the historic title (original owner), the designer/contractor, and a
range of historical data (water/sewer records, city directory data, other information and historical
image data). Another column described outbuildings, landscape, and gave the legal description.
Another column provided the evaluation, separately of the main building and subordinate buildings.
The historical data consisted as noted ofa layering of information sources. Water/sewer data
was invaluable because it listed parcel owners when a trunk sewer or water main was installed. Since
access to abstracts wasn't possible or feasible, this source provided a useful list of early and likely
long-term owners. City directory data was gathered for 1899 through 1921. The first date was the
earliest directory having a street address index, and 1921 was the first directory to use present-day
house numbers. The 1921 numbers were converted into 1918 and earlier numbers and these were run
back to 1899. The 1899 names were then traced back in earlier directories as far as they could be
followed. This work would have been impossible without original directories and these were made
available by the Center for Dubuque History at Loras College. A number of early directories were
searched for all listings from the three survey areas. The first two directories were those that
immediately followed the 1872 and 1889 birds' eye views (1873 and 1890). Directories for 1883,
1887, 1875, 1894 and the pre-Civil War directories were similarly searched. The carded listings were
then sorted and entered into the spreadsheets. This sampling approach substituted nicely for abstract
searches. A broad range of house history data that included historical tours, newspaper articles, etc.
was searched and many of the more notable houses were well documented. City building permits
survive for post- World War I years on and these were searched to document substantial alterations (re-
sidings, enlargements, outbuildings, moving in of buildings, demolitions, porch replacements). City
Assessor data provided the core data for setting up the spreadsheets. A largely complete list of
addresses was assembled and correlated with master survey maps prepared by the city. The data was
then field checked with special attention being given to outbuildings. The Assessor data provided a
rough building date, a current photo which was used to identify an initial style/type and evaluation, a
building footprint, number of stories, exterior materials, and outbuilding data. Earlier Assessor cards
from the 1950s were also checked because they commonly contained notes about long-term owners
and outbuilding data.
Historical images were gathered from the Center For Dubuque History and the Dubuque
County Historical Society. These included both overview and building-specific images. Considerable
success was realized in all three survey areas in finding photos. Maps, panoramic views, and most
important, Sanborn Maps were also used. The two panoramic views (1872 and 1889) were used as
templates to document the Assessor's earliest claimed building dates. This source proved to be very
98
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
reliable and corroborated other sources nicely. Historical photos were invaluable in measuring
changes to houses. None of the survey areas were completely covered by the earlier Sanborn Map
makers but each map was compared house by house to date and measure changes to each address.
One invaluable historical source was the use of end-of-year and other newspaper reports on
construction. All known end-of-year building reports had been previously compiled. Most had
addresses of some sort, but minimally provided a street and builder. A separate listing was prepared
that compiled these entries for each survey area. A number of years were thoroughly searched (April
to October, the construction season) in addition to these and first priority years were those that lacked
complete or any annual report. More detailed progress reports were found for many houses along with
a wealth of general historical and descriptive reports on the survey areas. City Council minutes were
searched to trace early road developments.
All of this information was amassed in the spreadsheet document and as the information sorted
itself out, the data was adjusted up or down the address list. Four or five different bits of information
would suddenly reveal which property they related to. Normally this type of information is assembled
in individual property-defined documents and there is no opportunity to adjust the information. In this
instance these individual site sheets were not set up until the month before the project was to end and
even then, they were not printed out until the very last minute as more information continued to
become available.
One neighborhood meeting was held in the Broadway neighborhood. Five property abstracts
were examined and the experience provided a useful test of this approach. Each abstract required
perhaps half an hour's time to research and analyze. Abstracts when combined with city directories
and other sources are invaluable data sources but they do not necessarily identify parcel occupants and
a list of owners mayor may not be helpful in searching city directories. The abstracts were
particularly useful for reconstructing land platting activities.
The project workforce consisted of the consultant, James Jacobsen, and a project intern, Linda
A. Mathewson. Mrs. Mathewson gathered the water/sewer, building permit, and early Assessor data
and she did much of the city directory research and looked for historical photographs. A city planning
intern set up the site sheets by copying the data from the survey spreadsheets to the individual survey
forms.
99
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Bibliography:
Dubuque Folklore. Dubuque: American Trust and Savings Bank, 1980.
Childs, C. The History of Dubuque County.. Iowa. Chicago: Western Historical Company, 1880.
Datisman, Elsie. Dubuque, Its History and Background. Dubuque: Dubuque Couonty Historical Society, 1969.
Dubuque And Its Neighborhood, Souvenir Gems of Dubuque. Dubuque: Harger and Blish Booksellers, 1897.
Dubuque.. the Birthplace of Iowa: A Photo History, Marceline, Missouri: Heritage Press Publications, 1955.
Dubuque of Today.. the Key City.. Historical.. Descriptive And Biof?Iaphical.. Commercial And Industrial.
Dubuque: Press of the Telegraph Job Printing Company, 1897.
Dubuque's Highlights of Historical Landmarks. Dubuque: Dubuque County Historical Society, n.d.
Hoffman, Mathias M. Antique Dubuque.. 1673-1933. Dubuque:, n.p., 1933.
Hoffman, Mathias M. Centennial History of the Archdiocese of Dubuque. Dubuque: Columbia College Press,
1938.
Horton, Loren. "Early Architecture In Dubuque." Palimpsest September-October 1974, 130-37.
Horton, Loren. "The Urbanization Process in Early Iowa: Town Planning And Growth in Dubuque, 1833-
1861," Iowa City; Research Paper, Fall Semester 1972.
Iowa Works Progress Administration. The History of Dubuque County. Des Moines: Iowa Writer's Program,
1942.
Koch, Augustus. "Birds Eye View of the City of Dubuque, Iowa, 1872." Hartford: American Publishing
Company, 1872.
Kriviskey, Bruce M. Historic Preservation Planning and Design Study In Dubuque, Iowa. Dubuque: Ben
Miehe and Associates, August 1981.
Kriviskey, Bruce M. Dubuque, Iowa-Architectural Survey 1978/1979, Atlas of City Wide and District Survey
Maps. Dubuque: n.p., c.1979.
Kriviskey, Bruce M. "Summary Memorandum: Dubuque Architectural SurveylHistoric Preservation Planning
Project 1978-1979, Dubuque: Bruce M. Kriviskey, April 1, 1980.
Kwasky, Albert. The Old Lady in Dubuque. New York: Vantage Press, 1979.
Kwasky, Albert. The Old Lady in Dubuque's Other Son. New York: Vantage Press, 1984.
Kwasky, Albert. The Old Lady in Dubuque's Town. New York: Vantage Press, 1991.
Langworthy, Lucius Hart. Dubuque.. Its History.. Mines.. Indian Legends.. etc. Dubuque: n.p., 1855.
Lyon, Randolph W. Dubuque: The Encyclopedia. Dubuque: First National Bank of Dubuque, 1991.
100
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Oldt, Franklin T., and P. J. Quigley. History of Dubuque County. Iowa. Chicago: Goodspeed Historical
Association, 1911.
Peterson, William J. "Dubuque-the Key City of Iowa." Palimpsest (November 1964).
Pickard, Josiah L. "Dubuque in Territorial Days." Iowa Historical Record (October 1899), 542-55.
Portrait and Biographical Record of Dubuque. Chicago: Chapman Publishing Company, 1894.
Simplot, Alexander. Souvenir of DubUQue.. Iowa. Dubuque: Alex Simp lot, 1891.
Sommer, Lawrence J. The Heritage of Dubuque: An Architectural View. Dubuque: First National Bank, 1975.
Telegraph-Herald. Dubuque The Birthplace of Iowa. Dubuque: Telegraph-Herald, 1998.
Wilkie, William E. Dubuque On The Mississippi.. 1877-1988. Dubuque: Loras College Press.
Willging, H. Roland. "German Catholics in Dubuque, Iowa 1840-1920." Dubuque: Loras College student
paper, 1960.
Dubuque Maps:
"Atlas of Dubuque County, Iowa." Clinton: Harrison and Warner, 1874.
"Atlas of Dubuque, Iowa." Rockford, lllinois: W. W. Hixson Company, n.d.
"Atlas of Dubuque, Iowa." Peoria, Illinois: Austin Engineering Company, Inc., for the Des Moines Real Estate
Board, n.d.
"Atlas of Dubuque, Iowa." Davenport: The Iowa Publishing Company, 1906.
DeWerthern, H. "Dubuque And Vicinity, Iowa, 1858." Des Moines: Iowa State Historical Society, State
Archives, Map Drawer Dr 52, Map lOA.
Sanborn Map Company. Sanborn Fire Insurance Maps, 1884, 1891, 1909, 1909/36, 1909/64." New-York:
Sanborn Map Company.
Simplot, Alex. "Map of the City of Dubuque, Dubuque." Alex Simplot Publisher, 1894.
IowalRegional Sources:
Andreas, A. T. A. T. Andreas Illustrated Historical Atlas of the State of Iowa.. 1875. Chicago: Chicago
Lithographic Company, 1875.
Shank, Wesley L. Iowa's Historic Architects: A Biographical Dictionary. Iowa City: University of Iowa Press,
1999.
Architectural Sources:
Blumenson, John J. G. Identifying American Architecture: A Pictorial Guide to Styles and Terms.. 1600-1945.
Nashville: American Association for State and Local History, 1981.
Foley, Mary Mix, The American House, New York: Harper Colophon Books, 1980.
101
Phase V Architectural and Historical Survey: Fenelon Place, North Main and Broadway Areas:
Gebhard, David and Gerald Mansheim. Buildings of Iowa. New York: Oxford University Press, 1993.
McAlester, Virginia and Lee. A Field Guide To American Houses. New York: Alfred A. Knopf Inc., 1984.
Walker, Lester. American Shelter: An lllustrated Encyclopedia of the American Home. Woodstock, New York:
The Overlock Press, 1981.
Whiffen, Marcus. American Architecture Since 1780: A Guide To The Styles. Cambridge: MIT Press, 1969.
Interviews:
Mathewson, Linda A. Personal interview. June 8, 2005.
Schreiber, Patricia. Personal interview. June 8, 2005.
102